ok guys, its time to remove the trans to get at a freeze plug. Well, since the clearance is so close none of the combinations I come up with wrenches will fit to loosen the bolts. Is pulling the trans on a '94 blazer just a three (3) beer job or what?? I have done it many times on different auto's but nothing as bad as this. Not to mention the fact that you never know if your dealing with metric bolts or sae. If any of you stalwart guys out there have done this i would appreciate any feedback, tips, or what have you.
Thanks. oh btw, auto trans.

 

Welcome to the site. We're happy to help, but more info is better.
Do I assume that you have a 2wd or 4wd, 4.3L ?

If the problem you're having is getting to the bolts at the top or side of the bell housing, I would suggest supporting the trans with a jack, removing the cross member, then lower the transmission on the jack to access the mounting bolts.

If you supply more info and want detailed re&re info, just let us know.
As I said, we're happy to help.

 

I believe "The Book" say that you need to remove the body bolts and lift the body about two inches.

 

In my 96 when I was replacing the motor, I ended up just pulling both the motor and tranny together. I just gave up on trying to get to the top bolts on the tranny. I feel your pain.

 

Are you ready for this?[sm=trust_me.gif]

Chilton manual has you jack the body up at least 2" to get to teh top two tanny bolts. However I prefer Chevy Lovers method, and I have done it just about every way imaginable.

Get a Chilton/Hanyes manual and follow it for most stuff.

Skip the body raising ordeal. DO like Chevy Lover mentioned, lower the back of the tranny with a jack and use about 3" of extensions and a wobble socket. I tpyed most of this out before, took me a few minutes to find it, use the hilton/Haynes manual and the below info. What I tpyed below was for a '96 model year. Regaurdless of year, they are almost the same as long as its a V6 engine. Post up if you got more questions, and post up to keep us up to date.



Since this will be your first tranny drop/install. Plan on 2 weekends. One to get her out, and one to get her back in. The first time always takes longer. Especially if oyu have questions. Let me know if your serious about doing this yourself and we can swap phone numbers.

I gather you have basic hand tools?
15mm or 18mm wobble socket for the bellhousing bolts. There all the same size, you can check on one of the lower ones. You'll need the wobble for the top two bolts, plus you will need about 3' of extensions.
Flare wrenches for the cooler lines. Check the fittings on the radiator (passengers side) for size, unless you can get your hand and a wrench between the frame, exhaust pipe, and tranny to check it on the tranny side. GM uses the same size fittings on both ends, not like Fords. Somewhere along the years GM went to quick connect fittings. There is a little clip that holds the cooler line in place. Pop the clip out and the line comes out. If you don't ahve it you will have to unbolt the flare fittings. The clip wire is about the thickness of a spiral bound notbook wire.
Floor jack and some wood. I use 1"x6"x2', and a piece 12" long. Bigger the floor jack the better. It needs to reach the tranny pan from the floor.
Jack stand to hold the engine in place.
I use car ramps, and it wouldn't hurt to use jack stands under the front frame to level the truck out. Remember the floor jack needs to reach the tranny pan while the truck is in the air. You can skip the ramps and jack stands if oyu can fit under the truck with it resting on all fours. In taht case block both sides of the wheels. You will be removng the tranny and driveshafts, the thigns that normally hold the truck still while in park. I hate to point out the obvious, however some people don't realize this until the truck starts to move on them.
I use a 3ton SUV floor jack now and remove the center piece on the jack end. Mine has a flat piece I rest the boards on. Before I used a 2 1/2 ton floor jack and about 4 pieces of 2"x4" nailed together to get the height I needed. Take about a balancing act. You could always rent a tranny jack, but I am too cheap.
I always remove the exhaust cross-over pipe. I got tips on those cross over to exhuast manifold bolts when the time comes if you need them. In most cases you will break at least one off. Being 10 years old. 50/50 shot. Propane torch and a spare hunk of muffler or sheet metal to protect hoses and wires.
That should cover the special tools.
Oh wait, I forgot about white out. You'll need that to mark the driveshaft relationships, and the torque converter to flexplate relationship if your reusing the old one.
PB Blaster.
Air hose. Compressor?
I also have about 4 old pie/cookie tins I use to drop nuts and bolts into. Keeps em seperated by components they came off of.

Extra parts you may need. Exhaust gaskets- goes between the y-pipe (cross over pipe) and manifold. y-pipe to manifold bolts?
Might not hurt to have a rear main seal on hand just in case. Your not going to have a better opportunity to replace it. You can always return it.
About 3 gallons of tranny fluid.
Tranny cooler flush. Comes in a spray can and is used t