Well, after much more reading my plan to do a RC 2" suspension lift are indefinitely on hold. I don't want a huge increase in CV wear and w/o dropping the housing it will. I might come up with a way, but for now the answer is no.

So I am back to considering the PA body lift kit. The price is right and I can do it any time. I'll be trying to fit 31s.

First up though is fixing some stuff. the people who owned this before had a front hub replaced and the shop re-used the original ABS sensor. ABS shows active all the time. Not INOP. Could be that one or the other front. It's got a broken wheel stuf and who knows what else. While they were doing the hub they tore the CV boot and it is now failing.... Picked up another shaft yesterday.

The truck is coming up on 160,000mi and is on the original ball joints. I picked up 4 MOOG units yesterday along with new tie-rod boots. Does it make sense to spend another $200 and replace both front hubs while I've got it apart...? Do I need any special tools for the shaft now that it isn't a flanged-type connection...? Do you guys remove the tension from the torsion bars before doing this or just use a jack to keep the weight on...?

I ordered boots for the front shocks. They are new, but the folks at that shop didn't put the stock covers back on....morons. I have new rear shocks coming and new sway bar bushings all around. Got the DynoMax catback too.

We'll decide on whether or not to body lift for 31s once the alignment is done.

If not....We're planning to use 30x9.50-15 Firestone Destination ATs on it. We run 265/75-16s on my Wife's suburban (and have for years) and really like how they work day-to-day. The 30s should fit w/o lift with the way this thing sits now. I really want the 31s though.....

 

i have 32k worth of miles on my setup with the TBs cranked. I have no abnormal wear, it gets throughly inspected and i havent had to replace anything yet. I have no binding of CVs or anything. I recented added 2" PA body lift to fit 32s.

you shouldnt have a problem fitting 31s as you want with the TB/shackle setup if you go 2" BL and the shackle/TB youll have alot of clearance

 

Just don't max out your torsion bars and you'll be fine. Thats how people wear out the front end components because they crank the torsion bars too much.

 

i did the 1.5" t bar crank, the only prob i had was the boots slipped of both cv's. fortunately since i poke around this rig alot i saw it and it was an easy fix.
just cleaned up the lube mess, wiped down boots and repacked. removed old retaining ring and went to autozone, bought the biggest adjustable clamps i could find slapped them on and ...done.

4.00 fix....as long as you keep an eye on them you should be fine, or looking back maybe i should have clamped right from the get go....live and learn.
i dont regret the t-crank or shackles one bit, love the whole setup. plus i have no abnormal/premature wear...i have logged about 10,000 mi on that setup...all good.

actually i am waiting for the weather to warm up a little to slap on a 2" bl.

i found looking into it that 1.5" is about max before you do chew up your front end.

my two cents.

 

from my own experience with this blazer then my 00 s10 both had bottomed out Torsion bar bolts and both logged thousands without any issues. Maybe i was a lucky one....blazer has 32k worth of hard miles, s10 had 41k worth of abuse

 

Hmmm....

 

ordering these NOW. NO MORE WAFFLING...!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-...item1c108534be

So....I'll put these on and will crank the T-bars to near level when I am done rebuilding everything (read above - doing ball-joints and such). I'll go with the 31s and see how they fit. If more room is needed I'll either trim or PA body lift or BOTH.

That's the plan and it would seem I am sticking to it now....have to. The parts pile is growing and I need to get something done.....

 

have fun, you wont regret it. the shackles were the only real p.i.t.a part of the job.
i have 31's on my ride...check the album for idea of fit...kinda snug but they are on stock wheels and have not had any rubbing of any sort.

 

Fair warning, if you plan on removing the front hub assemblies (which will probably happen if you are doing lower ball joints) you will need a 36mm or 1 3/8" DEEP well socket. Standard depth wont work very well. Just thought you should know before you get things torn apart and then dont have the right tools...