how many turns did you crank the front torsion bolts to get a 2" lift in the front?

 

1 full turn on each of the T Bar bolts = approx. 1/4" of lift... you should search for the tutorial: How to T Bar Crank it has a lot more info.

 

Yeah, it will be different depending on your springs though, I turned them only by full, then half turns, lowering it and doing a figure 8 before measuring bottom of the fender to TOP of the rim...should be slightly lower in the front than the rear. About an inch for me. Mine were something like 5 turns on one, and 6 1/2 on the other. (old springs)

 

paint the tow hooks only if you do the grill red that would look good

 

hi, just curious, on those rear pro comp shocks, do you know if they have 1 way valving? like if you compress down the shock while its out of the car, will it stay compressed down by itself? and be easy to push down on but be very hard to pull apart? also can you measure your rear shackle bolt spacing from centerline to centerline to see how far apart the holes are? thanks

 

The shocks stay compressed, and are resistant to compression and extension. I'll try and measure the shackles soon. If I don't forget lol.

 

yeah these are the shackles i was asking you to measure centerline to centerline. it can still be done with the bolts in it. just measured center to center on the bolts. and also you mean those pro comp shocks are not hard to extend apart?

 

Kane, I'm heading to work in a bit, I have the drawings for the ones I made & it has C/C for bolts holes, overall lenght etc. for both the stock ones & the ones I made. I'll post it in a couple hrs.

 

looks great man! got me wanting to start my spring projects early

 

Ok... I used 2" x 1/4" flat bar & 3" x 1 1/2" x 3/16" channel. Total length of the stock shackles was 6 1/2" so I made these 8 1/2"
& used the same bolt dimensions as stock. From the top it was 1 1/4" to center of the bolt & from the bottom was 1" to center.
Inbetween the bolt holes measured 4 1/4" so I made mine 6 1/4" inbetween & the ID between the flat bar is 3" but 3" 1/6" would
be ok too as they'll pull in a bit. The bolt holes are 9/16" & I used a drill press to drill through both sides at once after it was
welded & beburred so the holes were as straight & inline as possible, a very important step I think. Then it was off to get them
sandblasted, primed, powder coated & baked.

The photo shows the "top" of the shackle is on the top (notice the distance from the bolt holes to the ends).
They made the stock ones that way (more material above the bolt) because the suspension pushes up against the weight of the truck.
Makes sense to me anyway.

UPDATE: I just found this out, the distance from the center of the top bolt hole has to be at least 2 1/2" to
the top of the center brace.
And 2" from the center of the bottom bolt hole to the bottom of the center brace, this changes what material
you'll use as the center brace. Looks like I'll be modifying mine a bit

P.S. These were made for a 2002 Blazer, I'm not sure if the dimensions will be the same for other years.