So I did some cranking on my 99 TB T-Bars today to level out (raise) the front end and here's what I found-
The drivers side seemed to bottom out at 4 turns which is okay, that's all I needed. The passenger side took 2 turns. I jacked up each side to relieve tension before adjusting, then drove a good bit before remeasuring. I now have darn near 32-1/2" at each fender well.
Question, I have to wonder if someone had been cranking on these before; should the one have bottomed out with only 4 turns?
I want to make sure I did this right before alignment... Hopefully that will cure my wandering steering. I just put new KYB Monomax's on all four corners (which helped) but she still drifts a little bit as it did when I bought it.

 

After all that crankin even if your truck is level, how do you know if your truck is setting on all four tires equally?
Some will call that wedge.

 

I understand there are a lot of variables in taking this measurement, but I did just put new shocks on and made sure tires had equal air pressures.
The other part of my question is this- I originally went an equal 4 turns on each side as I have read here. But, afterwards the passenger side was sitting too high (by fender measurement). So, after backing it off 2 turns it's level. Should I have left both sides at 4 turns?

 

Shock absorbers do not affect ride height. Their sole purpose is to dampen the action of the springs/torsion bars. **Unless you're talking air adjustable shocks, (which are not recommended for several reasons)**

The torsion bar adjusters are for adjusting front chassis ride height, not body height. If front chassis ride height is not within spec, you're asking for trouble, and you'll get it, guaranteed It needs to be within spec BEFORE doing a wheel alignment. Adjusting the bars affects ALL alignment adjustments, (Camber, caster and toe).


Front chassis ride height is measured, and adjusted, with the vehicle on a level surface: front to rear, and side to side, (most easily and accurately accomplished on an alignment rack). Front chassis ride height is the vertical distance between the lowermost inboard point of the steering knuckle, to the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt. Spec for your 1999 4X4, (non ZR2) is 4.6" to 5.0" with 4.8" being desired. Measure from the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt to the ground. Then measure from the steering knuckle to the ground, and subtract that from the first measurement. The result is front chassis ride height.





Incorrect front chassis ride height will cause premature wear to all 4 ball joints, both outer tie rod ends, and all 4 CV joints. If you're looking to level or raise the vehicle, front and or rear, for whatever reason, do a body lift, not a suspension lift.

 

Sorry it took so long to get back to this; the weather got nice and the TB has been parked! Anyway, I realize this is a pretty precise measurement, but it looks like I'm just a fuzz under 5".
Think I'll schedule an appointment to have my shop check the front end components and if that's all okay, align it.

 

The closer the better. Gotta bounce the front end up and down a few times and check it after each adjustment to each bar.

 

Thanks Captain. Yeah, it's been driven several miles (bounced) since the adjustments.

 

The bars will stretch with time also.( I believe)