Alright So I cranked my t bars an 1 1/4" about 2 months ago. I just now today got around to getting an alignment which is okay cause I dont drive it much. My tires were wearing evenly and it was driving fine. I took it to a tire shop and had an alignment and they cranked the keys back down to stock ride height. I have 1.5" shackles and the rake was really bad. I have the computerized printoff sheet and all that if anyones curious. Not sure what I should do. Im probably going to crank it an inch and froget about it. I have brand new lowers and I pretty much olny drive it in the late fall, winter, and spring putting maybe 6k on it. Your 2 cents would be appreciated. Thanks, Brian

 

in my oppinion t-bar crank just causes more problems then what it its worth un less you customize front diff lowering brackets.

 

t-bar +1.25" and got an alignment. i have the same print off. my alignment was off by a BUNCH... but i also totaled a crx with my d side front tire so.... it might factor in. IMO as long as you dont go over 2" over stock, you should be ok. 1.5 = should be fine. 1" no change.

there is always the guy that cranks his t bars +4 and has no problems, and the next guy goes up .75 on one side to fix sag and blows out a cv... do what you like

 

So far its been 1 inch of crank and like I said they alligned me by cranking me back down and I went back up and even tire wear.

 

when i adjusted my t-bars i started chewing up cv axels so i put them back down to where the axels dont pop anymore so im asuming there where they should be from stock position.

 

How would one know the cvs are chewing up? I keep reading about the boot poping off or the grease comming out.

 

I chedked my cvs today and they had grease. am I doomed or is that normal? Its only cranked an inch.

 

Green grease = blown CV boot. You can try to replace the boot if it just recently started leaking, but if the joint has run dry, you have likely ruined it.

 

your not doomed but if the boot is still on i definately drop the t-bars back down. you still might want to replace the axel depending on how long it has been leaking. they usually run 40-50 bucks depending whether you go with a new or reman axel. but in my opinion drop the t-bars back down or you will go through the same thing i did axel after axel. you learn how to do axels really quick when you do it numerous times.