Its a lot easier option as opposed to diving into retrofitting stock housings for the first time without a lot of prior experience. Just replacing the projectors in the fleaBay housing's will save a lot of cutting, aiming, adjusting, and reaiming. And head scratching haha
Those links have some great info, but HIDPlanet is FULL of info.
I'm biased against the envoys headlights, just because I think they're ugly, but that's just me :P

 

OK, this is a little off topic of HID's , but what about HIR's? Have any of you guys used them? Do you get better than factory light out of them? Would there be any gain to using those or am I better off just getting a better set of stock bulbs for now while I research and save for a good HID Retro?

I came across this on another site "HIR LIGHTING

What is HIR?

HIR is a rather new breakthrough technology in halogen bulbs that allows twice the light output from the same voltage as their ordinary halogen counterparts. These lights use a special infrared coating on the bulb surface that reflects energy back to the filament causing it to burn more brightly.

For your 9006/9005 equipped truck, use 9011 to replace your 9005, and 9012 to replace your 9006. These bulbs will function perfectly with your stock optics and not adversely affect your beam pattern.

For more information, including how to install them (they require a small amount of trimming), the science behind them, and to buy these bulbs, visit HIR Headlights 9011 9012 bulbs.

For sealed beam trucks with an H4 conversion, there is no H4 HIR bulb. However the Phillips X-Treme Power +80 bulbs mentioned earlier in this thread, while not quite reaching HIR output, do use a variant of HIR technology to attain their extra brightness. If you want more light output out of your halogens, I recommend using overwattage bulbs. USE AN UPGRADED WIRING HARNESS or you will be risking fire and damage to your truck, not to mention you will not be getting nearly the light output you could be. I don't recommend going higher than 90/130W. Personally I think 80/100 or 90/100 would be a better choice. 90/130 tends to strain the alternator. If you have an upgraded alternator or have done the big 3 upgrade and do not have anything else that would cause a significant power drain (a small sound system is okay, a big one is not) then you can probably run the 90/130W without trouble.

Please note that I don't recommend running overwattage bulbs in your non-sealed beam truck. While quality E-Code conversion housings are made of metal and glass which can handle the extra heat, factory non-sealed beam housings are made of plastic which can't. HIRs are a better option than overwattage bulbs if available anyway because not only do they put out the same amount of light, but they also run cooler, draw far less power, and last longer."

My main goal here is to get better usable light output, I live in deer country, we get alot of fog as well, so I just want to get the best light that I can.

 

I don't have much personal experience with them, but know people that have run them. They're similar to Silver Stars in pattern and throw, but none of them have the coating on the tip of the bulb for the low beams, so you have to have housings with a glare cap, or you'll make a lot of people mad :P

 

Did you see this? I have x-treme power 100+ I believe in just h4 conversion housings in the g/f's blazer. Better than stock for sure. However nothing compares to the fx-r retro in my jimmy. Just running philips 85122 and 35w oem hella gen III ballasts. Doing a retro will be the ultimate in performance and once it's installed you will be more than happy.

 

That's definitely the easiest option! Ive got OEM FX-35s with TRS's clear lenses in my Blazer. Same 81522+ and 35w, so I know how well you see at night

 

I definitely want to go with the retro option, I just cant afford the 4 or 500$ price tag that seems to come with them.

What housing's do you guys have that have done the retro? How is the quality of the housing itself? If I can do this on the cheap, like under 300$ than I think that may be the way I go. I am not at all afraid of doing the mod itself (if i have you guys to help lol), just want to make sure that I am doing things the right way.

Do you guys mind posting up a couple of pictures of your setup and the light output? It would really help me to decide which way to go if I can see how they look and work on a blazer.

Thanks for all the help and input so far, I have learned alot already, and know that I have ALOT more to learn about all of this.

 

I've got mine done in the 97 blazer composite housings. The "Euro Diamond Clear" housings to be more specific, and that was the most expensive part of of my Retro at $150 for the pair, but that was because I got my projectors (with bulbs) from a friend in exchange for doing some computer work
That aside, I spent maaaaybe another $100 on it (shrounds, wiring, paint, LEDs, and mounting hardware) and about 3 months of work and fine tuning.
But, I love whoring mine around, so pics it is!

 

man that was quick lol. I like the cutoff with the low beams, what temp bulbs are those? And how does the high beam work on yours, is it one of the motorized type or?

 

since its bi-xenon, the cutoff shroud drops down, so yes, its motorized.

 

Exactly what rich says. And they're 5000k, but my camera made them look way blue. I swapped them back to the factory 4300k, and like them a little more because it makes seeing in the rain at night on black to easier than the more blue tinted bulbs
To make them work, you've got to do the "Quad-Beam Mod" and plug the wiring from the solonoid into your high beam harness to make the shield drop and the keep the low beams on.