I had barely pulled the relay out but enough to get connection with the multimeter.

 

There are times where it can be useful to test the relay in the socket but most of the time we are measuring voltages at the relay socket contacts with the relay pulled all the way out. Just don't force a large test probe down into the contacts because you can damage them. Many relays have the pin locations marked underneath but if not then that link I posted will show you where the pins are. They often don't line up with any picture on the body of the relay. The reason why I use 30/87 for the contacts and 85/86 for the coil interchangeably is because the relay socket can be wired either way, it does not matter which direction the current flows. You can figure it out with you meter though. You pull the relay and then see which socket 85 or 86 is connected to ground. The other one is connected to the white wire from the headlamp switch. For 30/87 you pull the relay and see which one is getting always on power and the other one goes to the headlights.


George

 

Yes I did not want to damage the relay socket so I had just pulled the relay out enough to test. But since I have wires attached to my multimeter tips to give more length from the Batt Neg I will test now with just the wires in the relay socket. Or is that not a good idea? I had a feeling I may have been doing it wrong.

 

Yes you can just test the sockets with the relay removed. You can use your probe tip but you just touch it to the socket metal and dont force it all the way in. You dont want the socket to lose its spring tension and not make contact with the relay pins correctly.


George

 

Ok I just did that and it read on the multimeter 0.12-0.09 on 85 and 0.01 on 86 with the headlights on at the switch.

 

Ok, now that we are testing everything with reference to battery ground with the relay removed, retest 30 and 87.


George

 

Yes. 30 was 12v and 87 was 0

 

OK, now these readings make more sense. You have power to the relay Contacts but you are not getting the call for headlights with +12V on the white wire from the headlight switch to the relay coil. You will need access to the back of that headlight switch to test the orange and white wires To battery ground with the headlight switch in the manual headlight position. You may need to pierce those wires at the back of the switch if there is no connector to back probe. In this case leave the switch connected. Did you say you replaced that switch?


George

 

Yes replaced the switch. 2 orange wires I tested the larger wire and that read 0.68 with switch on. White one tested 0 when on and 12 with the switch off.

 

Just to be sure we are on the same page because this is difficult to do remote control in this manner: The rotary dial on the headlight switch does not have an off position per se. There is (starting fully CC) auto, manual parking lamps, and manual all lamps which includes the headlamps. I guess auto is off in a fashion if it is daylight out.

You got 12V on the white wire with the headlamp switch in the auto position but 0V on the white wire in the manual headlamp on position?

0V on either orange wire at any time is a problem because they both get fused always on +12V power. The two orange wires are power for the headlamps and then the parking circuit. The parking circuit has the larger fuse so that may be the larger orange wire. What is the reading on the smaller orange wire? BTW when I am doing critical 12V measurements, especially if I get 0V when I am expecting +12V I touch the red probe of the meter to the positive battery terminal just to make sure I get +12V on the meter before I condemn the measured item for reading 0V. You could have a bad meter battery, crappy ground connection, break in a probe wire, ...

What is the voltage on both sides (tested separately with black meter probe to battery ground) of the HDLP SW Fuse 7, 10A in the IPFB and then same for the PARK LP Fuse, 20A in the UHFB?

We are getting closer.


George