No headlights!!!HELP PLEASE
I had too take my dash apart a little better to get the probes in better. White wire 12v while off and 0.62 when on. Orange wire thicker one reads 0.10 while on and 0 when off. The smaller orange read 0 either on or off. Both the HDLP fuse and PARK LP fuse both read 12V. I did test my meter and it all checked out good. Just didnt have good connection
I assume you mean literally 0 and not 0L because that means the opposite.
Well we have a very strange situation here. The two orange wires are the always on, fused power feeds for the two separate functions of the headlamp switch, power for the headlamps and power for the parking lights et al. You have power going into both fuses and the fuses test good, but no power arrives at either orange wire at the headlamp switch. That means that there are two failures in the wiring or under the fuse blocks simultaneously on both wires which has to be near zero odds. That said:
Next we test the continuity of both of those orange wires from the fuses to the headlamp switch. Put your meter in ohms on the lowest scale, remove both fuses, unplug the headlamp switch and then measure both power feeds. probe from the "not hot" side of the fuse contact (the contact that did not measure +12V before) to the end of the orange wire at the HL SW connector. It should be the IPFB fuse to the small orange wire and the UHFB fuse to the big orange wire. If you do not have continuity, switch orange wires and see if that changes anything.
Do your parking lights work?
George
Well we have a very strange situation here. The two orange wires are the always on, fused power feeds for the two separate functions of the headlamp switch, power for the headlamps and power for the parking lights et al. You have power going into both fuses and the fuses test good, but no power arrives at either orange wire at the headlamp switch. That means that there are two failures in the wiring or under the fuse blocks simultaneously on both wires which has to be near zero odds. That said:
Next we test the continuity of both of those orange wires from the fuses to the headlamp switch. Put your meter in ohms on the lowest scale, remove both fuses, unplug the headlamp switch and then measure both power feeds. probe from the "not hot" side of the fuse contact (the contact that did not measure +12V before) to the end of the orange wire at the HL SW connector. It should be the IPFB fuse to the small orange wire and the UHFB fuse to the big orange wire. If you do not have continuity, switch orange wires and see if that changes anything.
Do your parking lights work?
George
Yes just 0. Ok did both fuses and larger orange wire read with vehicle off 167.1 and 0 with vehicle on and sensor cover to kick in auto lamps 20A fuse under hood. Smaller orange wire read 0 with vehicle off and on. Yes parking lights work.
There are a set of results here that cannot co exist. First lets figure out which orange wire is power for the headlights. We need to figure out how to get your meter to beep for continuity to avoid confusion. On one of the resistance range settings, a diode testing setting or sometimes a dedicated continuity setting there should be a sound or speaker symbol. Get the meter set up to beep when you touch the probes together and always do this check before each measurement. Once you have figured that out, leave everything turned off, remove the HDLP Fuse 7 fuse in the IPFB and disconnect the headlight switch. Find out which orange wire shows continuity between the side opposite always hot power at the fuse contacts and the orange wire at the headlight switch. Which orange wire causes the meter to beep?
George
George



