Hi everyone, its pretty rare that I find a problem with my blazer that somebody else hasnt posted about and gotten a solution on so I hardly ever have to post, but today (now that the snow is here) I would like to crack down on a problem that I have with an old remote starter I installed last winter.
The product is a "Ready Remote model 26724", its fairly old and was removed from one of my parent's vehicles before they sold it years ago. Sat in the garage for a long time, last winter I found an install manual for it online:
http://home.comcast.net/~jpgolas/Des...el%2023724.pdf
Using that I attempted to install it in my 97 Blazer LS. After a few hours of work I thought it was a sucess because, well, it started from the remote. Note that I installed only the wires that seemed pertinent to starting the vehicle and none of the alarm/door lock/unlock features.
I happily drove back to college and proceded to use the remote several times, but soon I realized something was wrong. Although the truck starts from the remote and drives when you put the key in, it isn't started "right" because it won't go into 4th gear. I also noticed the front headlights dont come on like they always do when starting by key.
So i suspect I am missing something simple, maybe one wire, that is preventing the computer from realising the thing has been started?
Appreciate any advice,

-Andrew

 

I should also mention that once the remote has been used to start it and the issues occur, they do not go away for several days whether you use the remote or just the key the next time you drive it. Unplugging the battery makes all well again until you use the remote. Pulling the fuse for just the remote starter module doesn't help.

 

how can you tell its not going into fourth?

 

RPM's about 2300 on the highway. Took me a while to catch that one because from campus I only need to drive it 1 mile through a 30 MPH zone to get to work and back all week. Im guessing then that 4th gear is partially controlled electronically by the computer, that or the torque converter lockup. Its been quite a while since I could observe these issues since I didn't worry about it all summer, i will have to reconnect the power wire for the module and see if I can still replicate these problems. I just thought somebody might know of a third ignition wire that the directions I posted the link to was missing, since the instructions I followed were from the early 90's and I had/have no wiring diagram specific to the blazer. When I installed the module I had to use the description of the wires that was in the instructions, such as ignition 1 being hot in run and start positions and off in lock and acessory positions. Chances are good that for one or more of the wires I found a wire on the blazer that matched the description, but that doesn't gurantee it was the right wire.
If anybody has a wiring diagram for the ignition of the 97 that would help a lot.

 

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...etail/434.html

Take all that with a grain of salt, the wiring guide I followed from this site had the starter wire as yellow for an 88 s-10 but it's actually purple.

I suggest getting a Chiltons manual. Best 15 bucks I ever spent on the Blazer

 

so it only does it when the remote start is being used?

 

Thanks, I will compare that to my wiring. The ancient directions for the module never mentioned an ignition 3 wire, could be as simple as that. My question would be then, if the blazer has 3 ignition wires and the starter module only two, what am I supposed to do with the 3rd wire? Splice it with the second?

Also yes the problems occur once you use the remote starter and then they stay for a few days or until you disconnect the battery.

 

That depends on the gauge of the third ignition wire and if you think the one wire from the remote start module will handle the current draw of both wires or not. The right thing to do would be adding a relay on any other ignition wire coming from the remote starter then using that relay to switch a fused wire that can handle the current draw. A relay shouldn't draw much more than 200mA so you won't have that much extra load on the trigger wire but you'll still get power everywhere you need it with the right sized wires so you don't burn it all down. Most remote starters will have a extra wire that is either hot or grounded at the same time as the ignition wires are, you could use that to switch the relay as well. Those extra wires can only be used for tripping a relay though, you'll most likely fry the remote starter if you hook anything other than a relay to those wires. (IE: Don't hook that wire straight to the 3rd ignition wire!)

That is how I would approach it at least, I'm not exactly sure why you are having the problem you are though. When you put your key in and switch it on the remote starter is pretty much removed from the picture, any wire that needs power would be getting it at that point unless something was accidentally unhooked. That third wire might need power before the engine cranks though, in which case it might mess things up. Are you getting any check engine lights when the blazer is running funny?

I never spent too much time under the dash of my 2nd gen blazer, sorry I can't be of more help!

Good luck!

 

Thanks, I will be checking it out in the next couple days while school is out, I'll update once I get going.

 

Ready Remote™ | AutoCommand®

that website tells everything you need to know for wiring on your blazer. i just installed a ready remote on my 97 blazer and went perfect. did you make sure you installed the brake wire? also, there is only 2 ignition wires needed, not the third.