anyone know anything about mustangs?
#1
ok this is sorta out of the gm ballpark but here we go.
i have a 95 mustang and going down the road all is great.
but come to a stop and the fun is over. i cant accelerate to save my life.
i dont know what else to look at.
95 no power/accel tried several things - Mustang Forums at StangNet
if you want to read up on it.
basically i am at a dead end here...i dont know what to look for.
is the engine toast? i dont think so...i just dont know where i am going wrong here.
if this is the wrong area/bad topic..apologies.
desperate i guess sums it up.
thanks for any help,suggestions.
i have a 95 mustang and going down the road all is great.
but come to a stop and the fun is over. i cant accelerate to save my life.
i dont know what else to look at.
95 no power/accel tried several things - Mustang Forums at StangNet
if you want to read up on it.
basically i am at a dead end here...i dont know what to look for.
is the engine toast? i dont think so...i just dont know where i am going wrong here.
if this is the wrong area/bad topic..apologies.
desperate i guess sums it up.
thanks for any help,suggestions.
#2
by reading thru all the posts between here and the Rustang forum, Did the car always do this since you`ve gotten it? Have you changed out the gas filter? If your sitting in park idling and give the car gas does it stutter or spit or chug? This vibration in the car could be a misproperly installed clutch disc or plate. The throw out bearing could be wrong. clutch fork be bent.. there could be numerous things wrong with it,, Maybe your blazer put a curse on it and wants you to burn it and get it out of the family line of vehs, lol..Also , do you know th previous owner? What model rustang, that thing could have been beaten to hell and thats why they sold it..
Also you said you installed a thermostat? Are you sure you did`nt install it upside down? I`m being serious about that, i`ve seen it done.. recheck the thermo that its installed right, if its incorrect you`ll overheat..Good luck.let us know.
Also you said you installed a thermostat? Are you sure you did`nt install it upside down? I`m being serious about that, i`ve seen it done.. recheck the thermo that its installed right, if its incorrect you`ll overheat..Good luck.let us know.
Last edited by 2002XTREME; 07-16-2011 at 06:53 AM. Reason: added quote:
#3
by reading thru all the posts between here and the Rustang forum, Did the car always do this since you`ve gotten it? Have you changed out the gas filter? If your sitting in park idling and give the car gas does it stutter or spit or chug? This vibration in the car could be a misproperly installed clutch disc or plate. The throw out bearing could be wrong. clutch fork be bent.....
the vibration issue has come and gone from time to time as well as the hesitation issue. i figured it was because the car hadnt been driven in awhile.
the car doesnt sputter and holds idle great...its just getting here moving that is the issue. its like i press the gas pedal and there is a delayed reaction. i can literally stomp on the gas and the car doesn't even notice.....but if i gradually press the pedal i can build idle. by gradually i mean if i were at a corner and you were behind me waiting to go you would be pi$$ed off.
as far as the clutch issues...wouldn't they show up as i drove the car around? once i get the idle up and get moving its like there is nothing wrong at all...it flies thru the other four gears smooth and responds well.
the thing that really gets me is that in 5th i actually lose speed. i can hold the pedal to the floor and i will ever so slowly slow down...i didnt even notice it at first till i realized i went from 70 to 60 mph over 5 mins or so.
yup fuel filter is new.
the car is a 95 3.8l v6 5speed base model.
i dont know the previous owners other then buying the car.
i dont think they beat it....the car is in great shape other then paint fading.
of course they could have drove the hell outta it between waxes and washes....
yes i checked the t-stat...you never know. i think i didnt get all the air out of it.
i am just at a loss here....i dont know what it is.
at close to 200k i am thinking winter rebuild and just forget about the gremlins and start fresh. the block is solid and the car leaks no fluids at all. i just was hoping it could wait for awhile.
Last edited by warthogdriver; 07-16-2011 at 06:05 PM.
#4
ok,
well good news is i got the air out of the cooling system.
bad news...i reran the compression test dry/wet and found the problem.
i have lost compression on the middle cylinder on drivers side and rear cylinder on driver side as well....so i guess i have to look at my options.
i know at best it is a valve job, at worst head gaskets.
i have no fluid cross contamination so i think block is sound. i just dont know what to put into this now.
i am thinking with 200k almost on the clock a rebuild is in order.
or i can go with a engine from local yards for around 600-700 with about 100k or so on them.
problem with yard engine is it could be a roll of the dice.
any opinions are welcome at this point.
i wanna say thanks for the help.
looks like i have a full plate to deal with now.
also any ideas on good rebuild kits?
i am not looking to build a 1/4 mile monster.
i just want a daily driver with some pep.
thanks again.
well good news is i got the air out of the cooling system.
bad news...i reran the compression test dry/wet and found the problem.
i have lost compression on the middle cylinder on drivers side and rear cylinder on driver side as well....so i guess i have to look at my options.
i know at best it is a valve job, at worst head gaskets.
i have no fluid cross contamination so i think block is sound. i just dont know what to put into this now.
i am thinking with 200k almost on the clock a rebuild is in order.
or i can go with a engine from local yards for around 600-700 with about 100k or so on them.
problem with yard engine is it could be a roll of the dice.
any opinions are welcome at this point.
i wanna say thanks for the help.
looks like i have a full plate to deal with now.
also any ideas on good rebuild kits?
i am not looking to build a 1/4 mile monster.
i just want a daily driver with some pep.
thanks again.
#5
I would say that the headgasket is the most probable problem if it is affecting both cylinders. Likely blew out the compression rings between the two cylinders where they are closest. Between a valve issue & a headgasket, I would prefer a headgasket.
At that kind of mileage, I too would recommend a rebuild. As far as kits... Not too up to date on ferds. The last engine from one of those I rebuilt was a diesel from a late 80's F350 (or was it a F450...) that was my dad's spray truck.
At that kind of mileage, I too would recommend a rebuild. As far as kits... Not too up to date on ferds. The last engine from one of those I rebuilt was a diesel from a late 80's F350 (or was it a F450...) that was my dad's spray truck.
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