How high?
#2
Looking at my truck you cannot tell it has much of a lift but I did not do it for looks. Rather I did it for a bit more peace of mind when I'm crawling around off pavement.
#5
^ yep yep.
Broken ball joints, CV's blown apart, etc. Was replacing them on a regular basis.
Save your self some money in the long run and buy a actual lift kit. And like Christine said, if you are going to go torsion lift, buy the kit with control arms, keys, and diff drop bracket so you aren't changing parts out every week
Broken ball joints, CV's blown apart, etc. Was replacing them on a regular basis.
Save your self some money in the long run and buy a actual lift kit. And like Christine said, if you are going to go torsion lift, buy the kit with control arms, keys, and diff drop bracket so you aren't changing parts out every week
#6
Ez to say :P I've been looking for Rough Country suspension lift sets and R.C does not sell abroad. There are some ebay offers with insane prices. like $1k+$1k2 for shipping only. Despite we have a "representative" of R.C in Poland, they haven't answer my quotation request till now.
Just my 3 cents, as I guess OP is from my country
Oh, I can share my experience with doing a body lift. I did not go for a stock one (summit racing), as they are not polyurethane.
Things You're going to need for 2" body lift:
Just my 3 cents, as I guess OP is from my country
Oh, I can share my experience with doing a body lift. I did not go for a stock one (summit racing), as they are not polyurethane.
Things You're going to need for 2" body lift:
- polyurethane pads 80mm diameter x 50mm high, inner hole 14mm 12 pieces
- screws with washers M12x150 12 pieces
- polyamide pads 30mm diameter x 50mm high, inner hole 10 or 12, don't actually remember for lifting the front bumper
- a piece of a rubber hose to extend the fuel tank inlet 2" inner diameter
- a blue LocTite 243 for M12 bolt threads
- take off the front bumper
- take off the rear bumper
- remove towing hooks
- remove the metal clip that holds the brake pipes, located on the frame at the driver's side (under the ABS pump)
- detach the fuel tank inlet mount by removing three screws
- detach the clamps holding the pipes on both sides of the oil pan (driver's side for the engine lub oil, other side - tranny oil)
- the plastic clips that holds the wires that goes to a crank shaft sensor and the starter have to be opened
- (i guess that would be all)
- untighten the body mounting screws
- lever up the body evenly with caution, I might forget of sth. above.
- tranny oil pipes may interfere with a cooling fan and probably retaining clip at the oil pan won't match. I've tighten the clip to hold the lower pipe only.
- bottom of the cooling fan shroud will not match either. I've trimmed the plastic.
- the rear bumper mounting brackets will be mislocated. I've taken them out, the bottom hole went to a higher bolt and I've drilled another hole to bring them higher.
- not only the front bumper will interfere towing hooks, but also the frame. I've trimmed the plastic of a bumper.
Last edited by Mike.308; 07-28-2018 at 06:28 PM.
#7
^ yep yep.
Broken ball joints, CV's blown apart, etc. Was replacing them on a regular basis.
Save your self some money in the long run and buy a actual lift kit. And like Christine said, if you are going to go torsion lift, buy the kit with control arms, keys, and diff drop bracket so you aren't changing parts out every week
Broken ball joints, CV's blown apart, etc. Was replacing them on a regular basis.
Save your self some money in the long run and buy a actual lift kit. And like Christine said, if you are going to go torsion lift, buy the kit with control arms, keys, and diff drop bracket so you aren't changing parts out every week
Can i buy (& where from) just the RC upper control arms & diff drop brackets?
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