Rough Country 6" Lift
 

So, on Friday I ordered the 6" lift kit from Rough Country. Usually priced at $999.99, for December it's on sale for $899.99.

I plan to run 33x10.50 tires. This is slightly (~1.5") larger than the recommended tire size, but I'm prepared to cut the fenders for clearance.

From speaking with their online support, factory 4wd rims will not work. They have 6" of backspacing, which will rub. Rough Country specs 4.5"-5.0" for this kit. Pick N Pull sells steel rims for $7 each, so I'm hoping to pick up a set there that will work.

I'll be posting updates and pictures here as I go along, hopefully this can serve as a how-to thread for those curious about the lift.

Any questions, or if you've installed the kit before, let me know!

Following. I'm happy with my 2" lift but I'll be interested to see this done. Good Luck!

Following. I've been looking into th 6" for a future install...

Could someone give part number for the 6inch lift i cant find it on Rough Country site

It's under s10 blazer (2nd gen). This is the one for 4wd 4door. There is a separate option for 2wd.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...ee47368b6a.jpg

But no option for 2door?

I don't think they have the 6 inch for two doors. I'm not sure what the differences are. Possibly where the t bar crossmember is?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...0f5d4945c5.jpg
So, it's here! Haven't had much chance to really look through it. The instructions seemed decent, although the pictures are black and white and generally crappy in quality.

Skimming through the directions, there's a little more cutting than I anticipated, but I'm not too worried about it. They say to use a Sawzall. I'm thinking a cut off wheel might be better though.

I would use the cut off as well... might use more discs, but cleaner in the end. Would you mind posting pics during install? Would like to see what all intells.

Timmins_jimmy, I'm wondering if the lift kit is both 2door and 4 door. But I think you would have to contact rough country to find out for sure...

I'll definitely be posting pics of the install. Hopefully this thread can turn out well, and be a decent how-to for the next guy!

It specifically says it will not fit two door trucks. Not sure why, though

Driver side control arm removal
 

I began the install by removing the driver side upper and lower control arms. The instructions tell you to use some torsion bar tool to unload and remove the tbars. I don't have that tool, so I used my super secret alternate method (more on that later.)

I first backed out the tbar adjustment bolts all the way:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...dda3ca07e4.jpg

I then began taking the control arms and knuckle apart. Remove the brakes/rotor, and bust the tie rod off:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...c85a2fba97.jpg

At this point, you'll need to separate the upper and lower ball joints from the steering knuckle. This is where my alternate t bar method comes in.

So, you still have some spring tension on the t bar, and and lower control arm. With a floor jack under the lower ball joint, and taking tension off the suspension, loosen the upper ball joint nut, but leave it threaded on the ball joint stud. Smack the knuckle with a large hammer to break the ball joint loose. Remove upper ball joint nut, and raise upper control arm away. Slowly lower the floor jack, allowing the lower control arm to drop down.

With a 36mm socket and impact, remove the axle nut. Remove lower ball joint nut, and separate from steering knuckle. There is the ABS wire attached to the knuckle. I just left it attachedto the kuckle, and set it out of the way:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...abe47adfb7.jpg

Now, with the knuckle out of the way, it's time to remove the control arms and shock. The shock is simple enough, bolt on bottom, and a bolt on top, and it comes right out.

The upper control arm has two bolts, where it pivots on the frame. Keep in mind, the bolts won't turn, only the nuts. The bolts aren't round, they have a flat side, this is how the alignment is adjusted. Remove both bolts, and remove upper control arm:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...169b7d5321.jpg

The lower arm is fairly easy as well. It also is held in by two bolts. The front bolt is inside the frame, but there is an access hole to reach it. You will have to drop the sway bar to access this hole, though:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...4794c41b94.jpg

Once both lower control arm bolts are out, slide the arm out of the brackets. The tbar will still be attached at this point:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...37d631a968.jpg


Using the same large hammer from earlier, drive the lower control arm towards the front of the truck, until it's off the tbar.

So, this is as far as I've gotten, before I decided to call it a night:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...4ed966c1d5.jpg


Tomorrow I should have the passenger side broke down, and have the tbars and their crossmember removed. After that, it's time to drop the diff! I'll be sure to keep this thread updated with my progress. If anyone has any questions, or wants specific pics, lemme know!

Great documentation so far! This will be a good thread for people to reference.

Thanks for the write up so far. I can already tell that I'll be looking at this thread before the installation instructions that come with the kit! If what you said is true, then they are no different from the 2.5 lift instructions, which I only used for the differential cutting. Although they are good, your picture quality is A LOT clearer and detailed then theirs lol.

What is nice about their instructions is they tell you the size of all the fasteners. I can eyeball a 3/4 vs an 11/16, but an 18mm or a 21mm? Forget about it.

Got the passenger side all busted down:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...83293c14bb.jpg


Next came the torsion bars. Since at this point, I had the t bars completely unloaded, i was able to completely remove the t bar adjustment bolt, and the block it threads into, leaving the torsion bars and keys like so, moving freely:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...a646b33f8e.jpg


To remove the torsion bars from the vehicle, they need to first be removed from the keys. I loosened the nuts holding the tbar crossmember to the frame, but left the nut on. This allowed some movement of the cross member. I then "slide hammered" the tbars forward and backward, until they came out of the keys. CAUTION: when the tbars come out, the keys will drop out. They are fairly heavy, and will not feel good when it hits you right in the face! (And no, I didn't have to learn this lesson the hard way, lol)

Victory against the tbars!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...06bb75dc1f.jpg


Now with those out of the way, you can drop the tbar crossmember down. Once it's down, go ahead and remove the crossmember hangers:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...78f8b291dd.jpg


The bolt is accessed through a hole in the frame:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...46a1803251.jpg


Be careful when removing this bolt, so as to not drop it inside the frame!

That's all so far, I might go back out later and drop the front driveshaft, though. After that, it's time to drop the front diff!

(Sorry for the potato quality of the pics, it's hard to take a decent photo under the truck with crappy lighting. If anyone needs or wants a better pic, let me know!)

Not sure about anyone else, but coming out nicely for me... can see everything your describing.

Bonus Edition!
 

So, had some more energy, and decided to drop the diff!

First, remove the drive shaft. To keep the shaft from turning, engage 4wd, with truck in park:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...e06ecd34cd.jpg


Now you'll need to disconnect the wire by the actuator housing:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...9be3605049.jpg


Also, the actuator cable itself will need to be disconnected from the vacuum actuator, if yours is so equipped. I've already converted mine to a posi lock setup, so I just disconnected it from the bracket I made.

Now it's time to start unbolting the diff. You will need to have some support under the diff before you start unbolting it. It's heavy, and not gonna feel good when it lands on your face. A floor jack works well.

There are three locations the diff is secured to the truck. I began by removing the two bolts on the passenger side axle tube. These are the easiest to get to. There is a bolt and bracket at the bottom of the diff housing. Remove that bolt, and cut the bracket according to the instructions:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...278e93090c.jpg


Not the best picture, but there was an "L" shaped piece on the right side of that bracket. This must be removed in order for the diff to come down.


The last bolt is on the top of the diff. You can get a wrench on the bolt head fairly easily, the nut is accessed through the driver side wheel well. There is a hole in the frame that is supposed to give access to it. Mine wasn't quite wide enough, so I had to cut a little:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...47070191f0.jpg


Using a sawzall, I made two vertical cuts, and beat the metal down with my BFH. This granted enough clearance to get the impact on the nut.

When all four bolts are removed, the diff will be completely free. It took a precise series of yanking, shoving, and wiggling, but it eventually dropped down. Lower the floor jack, remove the vent tube, and violá! This is what your front diff looks like:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...ebe2fd9959.jpg


That's all for tonight. Next step involves some more cutting, and finally I can begin to bolt on some new stuff!

What year is your blazer? Does your c/v axles bolt to the transfer case? Mine just slide in.

It's a 95. I know they changed to the other style later, not sure of the year.

Mine just bolt right up. I believe it's six bolts on each.

Whoa, makes me Jones for a 6 inch lift!

I'll give a honest review of the ride quality after I'm all done. Bunch of guys on reddit were hating on the quality, so we'll see how it goes.

Not like we have any other options for a lift that size for our trucks, anyway

So, not much done tonight. Had a few errands after work. I did get a decent work light, so hopefully my pics will turn out better from now on!

You have to remove the factory steering center link:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...332c882826.jpg

After removal:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...8fa5ed1f5d.jpg

Now you need to cut out the factory stabilizer bracket:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...0c9a23ad18.jpg

Like so:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...0e1e448aab.jpg

Quick question: does y'alls trucks have anything mounted to that bracket in the above pics? Mine didn't have any type of stabilizer there, I'm wondering why it's even there.

Now you can bolt on the new center link:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...53f1c81231.jpg

In the instructions, you're supposed to cut parts of the control arm pockets. The pictures are absolute trash, and I can't tell where I'm supposed to cut. I'm skipping that part from now, I'll wait till I start bolting the control arm drop brackets on, and see if that makes it more clear
​​​​​
​

To answer your question: No, most don't. It is the bracket to where you would mount a steering stabilizer. Some came with it and I think the ZR2s did. I installed an RC steering stabilizer using it with the other end clamped to the far end of the centerlink, just inside where the idler arm attaches.

Man, the instructions on this kit are absolute garbage. Can't tell hardly anything from them. They give you a rough idea of what's supposed to happen, but the rest is up to you to figure out!

I started off tonight by installing the front lower control arm crossmember. This requires a little bit of cutting to fit:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...1a0d1f097a.jpg
Please ignore my finger lol. This is the passenger side control arm mounting pocket. Laying on your back looking up, feet towards the front of the vehicle. The driver side is done the same way.

Here is the crossmember fully mounted:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...1e49ca8f05.jpg


There is a "link" that goes between this crossmember and the steering center link:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...95a26535cd.jpg

This thing pissed me right off. First, the threads were a little messed up. One of the "ball joint" type ends threaded into the sleeve fine, the other I had to clamp in my vise, and turn with a crescent wrench. Also, the way the bolts are oriented, you can't even get a ratchet on them, much less an impact. Wrenches all the way.

After all that, I mounted the passenger side diff drop bracket:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...859adb4fc7.jpg


The picture in the instructions doesn't help much. The bracket that sticks off of it goes towards the front of the vehicle. This is what the steering stabilizer attaches to.
(Note how the bolts are angled. Think you're gonna get an impact or ratchet on that?)


Steering stabilizer mounted:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...8d0c65bdd9.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...8420614415.jpg


Had a hell of a time getting that stabilizer on, also. The rubber donuts on the shaft end of the stabilizer were too thick, and I couldn't get the nut started. Had to shave them down a little with a knife. They look like they are over compressed right now, but that was the only way I could get a full nut on the threaded shaft.

That's probably all for tonight, next is a little cutting on the diff, and installing the other two diff brackets, and then somehow getting the diff back in place.

Well, we messed up today guys. Had to cut the fins off the diff for clearance. Got a little carried away:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...ead61f4ab9.jpg

On my way to home depot now for jb weld. Probably not the best idea, but it's definitely the cheapest lol

Whoops! :eek:


Could you get some 90 degree angle aluminum extrusion and with some sealant screw it over the opening to seal it?

Possibly. I've got some quick set jb weld, I'm going to gradually build it up to cover the hole. If it doesn't work, I can always pull one at the junk yard

The JB Weld will hopefully work as a short-term fix, but you'll probably want to go ahead and pick up a replacement. At least now you know exactly how deep you can cut!

It'll for sure be easier to replace the diff with the lift kit installed. It seems like they'll be more room in there

So, the jb weld is going OK so far. Just got the hole closed up. I'm gonna put one more coating in about half an hour, and let it harden overnight.

Tomorrow I'll flush some oil through it, to hopefully get out most of the metal shavings. Then I'll fill it up, and see if it leaks.

With any luck, I can have the front end completely finished by tomorrow evening

So, hole is closed with JB Weld:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...130567c489.jpg

Hopefully it doesn't leak, haven't checked yet. I wanted to completely finish any cutting and grinding I needed to do, in case I poked any other holes in it.

Before installing the rear lower control arm cross member, you have to cut on the driver side "pocket." Basically, your're cutting off the old lower diff bracket. Here's the cross member installed:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...a46f60526b.jpg


It's hard to tell from the pic, but that drop bracket is super tight to the diff. That's the reason the fins need to be cut. If anyone reading this installs a kit themselves, be very careful cutting those fins! Get a stack of aluminum grinding wheels, and go slow. It'll take longer, but do you want a jb weld differential houising?

Here's a pic of the diff installed:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...e60cf98436.jpg


Anyone who has this kit has zero excuses to have leaking oil lines! They're very easy to get to with the diff dropped 6". You could probably remove the adapter and lines altogether, and just run a filter on the block, if you wanted to. You would lose the oil cooler, though.

There's a few spots that I had to pay extra attention to, as far as clearance.

First was the steering stabilizer bracket and diff:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...6ee94519d7.jpg

At full lock left, this would hit the remains of the upper diff bracket. A little extra grinding, and it had plenty of room.

The other spot was from the steering center link to the diff. From center turning left, it would rub. I ended up grinding some off the new center link, and as much as I felt comfortable on the diff:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...318832fe97.jpg

This pic shows the clearance I was able to get. I didn't want to grind more on the diff, as I was getting into a gasket surface. I could honestly have probably gone deeper on the diff, but I'm now leery of leaks lol. There's always daylight visible between them, so I'm going to leave it like is.


Have to run to the store for gear oil, but it's looking like the front will be done today. I'll post another update later on today.

Time for the evening update.

To get the driveshaft hooked back up, you have to cut out part of the exhaust:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...88c11f3d31.jpg

I bought some flex exhaust tubing to do a temporarily permanent fix on it. The angle of the shaft is obviously much steeper than factory, which was pretty much flat. Hopefully it's not too much for the ujoint. I plan to run it till failure, and then replace with a high angle one.

Before installing the upper control arm drops, remove the bump stop bracket:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...ee09369633.jpg


There is some slight trimming to be done around the factory control arm mounting points before the drop brackets can be installed:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...6863479cf7.jpg
The red triangle is what you will need to cut from the upper front pocket on both sides.

Also, there is a piece you will need to cut on the frame , between the two upper control arm mounts:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...9d56537eef.jpg
Not the best representation, but it'll give you an idea, anyway. Basically, as you're beating the drop brackets into place, take note and cut anything that's interfering with it. They're a tight fit, and I had to beat mine in with my BFH. I also had to use a reamer to get the bolts in, as well.

Upper rear mount:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...61fac01ac9.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...777350677a.jpg

There's no good pic of this in the instructions. This seems to make sense to me. Since the factory mounting holes are slotted for camber adjustment, this keeps the drop brackets from moving around.

These two bolts attach to the lower rear crossmember. Had to ream those holes, as well, since they were no where near lining up:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...732bad83f1.jpg


Here's the whole thing installed:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...f55d564670.jpg

In the rear upper mounting point, they send "crush sleeves" to go in between, to keep from collapsing the mounting tabs. I had to grind on both of those to get them to fit.

Next, remove the bump stops from both upper control arms. Use the bump stop hole to align the shock mounts, mark it, and drill the holes to mount it:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...68f36d4830.jpg

In their instructions, they have the driver side and passenger sides mislabeled. The only way they fit, was to have the driver mount on the passenger arm, and vice versa. Pay close attention to this when you mount them.

Went ahead and installed the sway bar drops:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...7ea9c9dbb6.jpg


Upper control arms in, cv shafts back in, knuckle semi installed:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...ed8bd8256a.jpg


Can't really do anything else until the t bar drops are in, then I can make up the lower arms, and finish out the knuckle. Might not have a chance to work on it for a few days. Got several different Christmas' to go to, with all the family and in-laws.


Edit: forgot to take pics of the stabilizer bar for the drop brackets. Basically, it runs above and parallel to the steering stabilizer, and ties bot of the control arm drop brackets together. They give you two shims for it, I ended up using one. It's a pretty simple piece, don't think anyone will have trouble with it.

It's coming along nicely. Damn Christmas... always taking up important time for maintenance lol... my only concern, for myself, is that when I did my 2.5 RC lift, they replaced the stock UCA's with tubular ones... not sure if that bracket would bolt up to it. might have to get a pair of stock ones from the wreckers, or send an email to RC and see if they have a way around it...

all in all good work so far.... any leak from the diff yet?

Haven't noticed any. The hole was above the oil level, so I might not be able to tell until I drive it, and it all gets sloshed around.

So, front is completely finished, except for brake bleeding and alignment. Didn't take as many pictures as I should have, but I'll get a post up tomorrow.

Here's how it sits now:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...b54c2aa223.jpg

Hoping I can get the rear done in a day, it's just an axle flip.

I'll be ordering the tires and rims on Monday. Going with 33x10.50 super swamper boggers on pro comp 51 rims.

Tried to find some cheap steel rims at pick n pull, but no luck. Really didn't want to spend $300 on rims, but looks like I'm gonna have to

Damn! That is quite the lift!

This is an awesome write up! Nice work.


Ouch, it sucks about the diff. Jb weld makes a 'steelstik' which is almost like a 2 part clay you kneed together. lve used it on a four wheeler crank cases(anytime a chain comes off, it tends to blow a hole in the crank case lol). Anyhow, they're also cast aluminum (and operate at way higher temps) and I've never had the steelstik jb weld come off or leak. I'd highly reccomend using that over regular jb weld. Plus its rock hard when it cures, and thick so one layer is all you'll need.