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V8 Engine Swap Questions

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  #11  
Old 06-15-2015, 10:20 PM
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I already have a 2" body mount, so I think that's all that would be simulating. I have it to the point right now where I only have the top two bell housing bolts left to remove, then they should separate. I've read online that if you pull the distributor you can reach those, is that true? I can't pull the dizzy tonight as I don't have access to my wrench for it, but I will try tomorrow. Then all I have left to remove are the fuel lines that go into the back of the intake, and any of the other small stuff that's going to snag, thanks for all the help, I'll keep you guys posted on what happens
 
  #12  
Old 06-16-2015, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Joshuamorrow77 View Post
I already have a 2" body mount, so I think that's all that would be simulating. I have it to the point right now where I only have the top two bell housing bolts left to remove, then they should separate. I've read online that if you pull the distributor you can reach those, is that true? I can't pull the dizzy tonight as I don't have access to my wrench for it, but I will try tomorrow. Then all I have left to remove are the fuel lines that go into the back of the intake, and any of the other small stuff that's going to snag, thanks for all the help, I'll keep you guys posted on what happens
Yes, once u remove the distributor u should be able to remove those bolts as the oil pressure sending unit & knock sensor plugs.......
 
  #13  
Old 06-16-2015, 05:19 AM
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You also have to unbolt the pressure plate
 
  #14  
Old 06-16-2015, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by newguy View Post
You also have to unbolt the pressure plate
I'm sorry, but what is that? Or I should say where is that? I've never heard of that
 
  #15  
Old 06-16-2015, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Joshuamorrow77 View Post
I'm sorry, but what is that? Or I should say where is that? I've never heard of that
If you have an automatic, the more widely known term is flex plate. It is the plate that bolts onto the crank shaft that also bolts to the torque converter.
 
  #16  
Old 06-16-2015, 08:00 PM
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I still maintain the proper/best way to accomplish this is to remove them together then separate them. Look at the hassles you are having now just taking them apart imagine trying to put them back together with a different motor!
 
  #17  
Old 06-16-2015, 11:22 PM
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Well, I got the two seperated, apparently I was making a much bigger deal about it than it was. Had I just removed those top two bolts to begin with, all would have been easy. I have the motor out completely now. I appreciate all the input I have received, I'm going to go ahead and remove the transfer case and change the input shaft seal, can anyone tell me where that is? I really don't even know what a transfer case is, I assume it's the housing by the rear end?
 
  #18  
Old 06-19-2015, 03:49 PM
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I had a kind of off topic question. Would it be harmful to pull my blazer about 10 miles with a chain when the motor is out and the transmission is ratchet strapped up? I've never done it without a motor in and didn't know if I was able to or not
 
  #19  
Old 06-19-2015, 04:46 PM
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Make sure its in neutral and its ratcheted up well
 
  #20  
Old 06-19-2015, 06:47 PM
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I see both sides cause im old school 100%.I hate electronics because they are prone to fail more so over mechanical thing.
The cons are your carbs are going to be hard to find parts for.Go with tbi its the easiest of all FI and more efficient than a carb any day with better response.
You drop in a v8 you change all your front suspension,stronger shocks and struts
Another con is if you go straight forward simple you are going to take on the most difficult wiring job of your life so I hope your electronic skills are the best in the world.
Your project is like trying to convert cpi engine into the an sfi Its a major headache with having to rewire everything.
Last Im NOT saying it cant be done but be prepared for this prject to take yea o complete.Good Luck!
 

Last edited by 1sttimejimmyowner; 06-19-2015 at 06:58 PM. Reason: -


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