First off just wanted to confirm that if you replace the ball joints in your Blazer DO NOT buy the crap on ebay (they wear out in a year), save your money and purchase some quality ones like Moog. I saved my money and purchased some Moog ball joints for my 97 Blazer 4wd. I had also recently scored some front knuckles and brakes (with lines,saddle, and dust shields) from a '00 4wd Blazer at the junkyard. Since I haven't seen many posts of upgrading the single piston brakes on a 97 and under 4wd to the 98 and up 4wd twin piston brakes, I figured I'd share my experience.

First if you need to purchase new hub bearings then buy the 98 and up hub that has the sensor in the hub, where as the 97 has the sensor riveted to the dust shield (your old dust shields will not work since the 98 rotor is slightly larger in diameter). I had purchased new hubs only a year ago so I wasn't going to spend another $300 for a pair. So I grinded off the rivets on the dust shield which allowed the sensor to separate from the factory dust shield (basically the sensor is magnet on a triangular piece of metal that has bolt holes for the hub bolts to go through, and the dust shield is riveted to it).

The 98 dust shield has a "t" shaped opening which faces forward that needs to be cut about 4mm wider on each side so the 97 magnet sensor can fit through it. Next place the 97 sensor on the 98 knuckle, then the new dust shield, next the 97 hub, and finally bolt in the three bolts. Bolt in the 98 knuckle to the a-arms. Now, the combination of the 97 sensor and the new dust shield will cause the new rotor to sit about 2mm closer to the outside of the brake saddle bracket (since the hub is slightly spaced out, but still fits securely in the knuckle). I fixed that by using some quality large washers between the knuckle and saddle bracket, this made the rotor fit perfectly between the saddle bracket. Next bolt in the brake caliper/pads and bolt in the new 98 brake line from the caliper to your factory hard brake line. Bleed the brakes and your done. If you buy new 98 and up hub bearings then you will not have to worry about spacing the saddle bracket, and everything will bolt up fine.

If anyone has replaced the ball joints then you know how much of a PITA it is to get the pitman arm off, and if your ball joints on your idler arm and pitman arm are stuck on the steering rack the joy of getting them off as I had. Moog ball joints are not cheap in price, but are a quality part.

It took me an entire day of work, but the truck handles like new and stops much better. I wish I would have taken pics of the whole process, as it would make explaining it easier. The final project is the disc conversion to the rear, since I have all the parts to complete it but will be happening in the near future.