How to adjust tie rods
#1
How to adjust tie rods
Hello again peeps. I have an 89 s10 blazer 2wd and late this summer I did a rnr on inner and outer tie rods and center link. Also did my own alignment and everything was good for a bit. Minus steering wheel being off center. Now I'm starting to replace upper and lower ball joints cause I have some loud popping sounds when I come to a stop or when I turn the wheel sharp to pull out of a parking spot it sometimes feels like one of the front tires wants to fold in under the truck. Figure I should adjust tie rods while I'm doing the b-joints. Is there an easy way to figure out how to adjust tie rods? From the looks of things, it looks like there are more threads showing coming off inner tie rods vs outer. appreciate any ideas given.
Also in doing the upper joints, they are riveted, and using a grinder or cut off wheel to take the tops of rivets off. Is it ok to mar the top plate of the joint as long as I don't mar up the A arm??
Also in doing the upper joints, they are riveted, and using a grinder or cut off wheel to take the tops of rivets off. Is it ok to mar the top plate of the joint as long as I don't mar up the A arm??
#2
For the tie rods, I would remove and re adjust to have them around centered, I don't think its a must, but its a preference for me... your good to grind them off, then use a punch to punch the remaining out.
For the popping, it could be the idler arm. I would jack up the passenger side, and check tor ply on the center link by moving the wheel side to side by hand. Make sure you have a stand under the vehicle so it doesn't come off the jack. If the link moves up and down noticeably, then I would look into replacing your idler arm.
For the popping, it could be the idler arm. I would jack up the passenger side, and check tor ply on the center link by moving the wheel side to side by hand. Make sure you have a stand under the vehicle so it doesn't come off the jack. If the link moves up and down noticeably, then I would look into replacing your idler arm.
#3
For the tie rods, I would remove and re adjust to have them around centered, I don't think its a must, but its a preference for me... your good to grind them off, then use a punch to punch the remaining out.
For the popping, it could be the idler arm. I would jack up the passenger side, and check tor ply on the center link by moving the wheel side to side by hand. Make sure you have a stand under the vehicle so it doesn't come off the jack. If the link moves up and down noticeably, then I would look into replacing your idler arm.
For the popping, it could be the idler arm. I would jack up the passenger side, and check tor ply on the center link by moving the wheel side to side by hand. Make sure you have a stand under the vehicle so it doesn't come off the jack. If the link moves up and down noticeably, then I would look into replacing your idler arm.
Do you know how many turns it is for the tie rods when putting them in. I lost count the last time and that's why I have to redo them.
#5
Usually you would measure a fixed distance on the tie rods where you can determine it before removal and then try to replicate with the replacements. Never very accurate but it would put you into the ballpark.
Two former threads wich have some information for alignments.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/steeri...ent-job-98516/
Have a look at my writeup in post #8
https://blazerforum.com/forum/steeri...day-1-a-95491/
As for grinding the rivets. Check if the replacement has the plate, then it should be no problem. The front suspension A-arms are structural parts which are highly solicited and should definitively not be marred. I like to drill out these steel rivets but sometimes they are too hard. Using a small sphere type grinder and application of some tape around it may help. Also a thin aluminium sheet-metal with a hole slightly bigger than the rivets head could be used as a shield. Just go slow with a steady hand.
Two former threads wich have some information for alignments.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/steeri...ent-job-98516/
Have a look at my writeup in post #8
https://blazerforum.com/forum/steeri...day-1-a-95491/
As for grinding the rivets. Check if the replacement has the plate, then it should be no problem. The front suspension A-arms are structural parts which are highly solicited and should definitively not be marred. I like to drill out these steel rivets but sometimes they are too hard. Using a small sphere type grinder and application of some tape around it may help. Also a thin aluminium sheet-metal with a hole slightly bigger than the rivets head could be used as a shield. Just go slow with a steady hand.
Last edited by error_401; 11-24-2020 at 02:47 AM.
#6
Right on!! That is very helpful thank you.
I got one more question. With my 89 s10 blazer do the lower ball joints come out the bottom a arm and what would be better to use a c clamp or I also have a 3 jaw puller and only use two of the arms?
I don't get paid until after thanx giving so I can't get the proper tool to do pull the b joint out with
I got one more question. With my 89 s10 blazer do the lower ball joints come out the bottom a arm and what would be better to use a c clamp or I also have a 3 jaw puller and only use two of the arms?
I don't get paid until after thanx giving so I can't get the proper tool to do pull the b joint out with
Last edited by Juggalonmd; 11-24-2020 at 01:25 PM.
#7
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