Wasn't sure where to put this so I'll try here.

Trying to replace the front hub assemblies and forgot to take off the hub bolt on the passenger side (first time ever doing this). I have already removed the three bolts in the back of the hub assembly then when the hub assembly didn't come off I noticed the giant bolt holding it. Put the three bolts a couple threads back in, put back on the brakes without the rotor (the piston reset and didn't want to force it back down just yet) and put back on the tire to try to get this bolt off, well a few out of breath attempts latter the bolt is still there.

I've tried with a breaker bar about 2 or 3 feet long and the ratchet broke in my socket! The socket had to be pulled off the bolt and the bolt didn't even budge!

I've broken another ratchet already by jumping on it, and the bolt still held

Am I missing something here, or do I just need a bigger bar and a better ratchet? It's a 2001 four door four wheel drive LT

 

You need a 17MM bolt to get the assembly off. Do you happen to have a impact tool? Those are helpful!

 

17mm? The socket that fit was a 36mm, or am I going after the wrong bolt?

I do not have an impact tool, but can probably get one if it isn't too expansive. No air tools though.

 

go to harbor freight and get their biggest 1/2 inch breaker bar(10.00) socket to match. that ll do it

 

I'll give that a shot tonight.

And I know this will soon stupid but it is left to loosen this right? It's not reverse threaded is it?

 

I have always used my 1/2" impact and my impact rated 36mm socket for these. Only a few times have I had to break them loose first with a breaker bar and never have I had to use a cheater pipe on the bar.

I would never use a ratchet on such a high torque application unless it was made for it. Most ratchets aren't rated for the torque you can apply when using a cheater pipe. Ratchets with long handles typically have deeper/fewer teeth in the head for better torque rating.

I have broken a few breaker bars over the years when using cheater pipes with cheaper bars so it's not impossible, but good quality tools are very hard to break and worth the extra cost.

If you still have a tough time getting it loose, I would suggest repeated heat & cooling cycles using a propane torch for heating and penetrating oil for cooling.

It is not reverse threaded. Lefty-loosey // righty-tighty

 

Either an air impact, or a long piece of pipe, with a good breaker bar ought to get it.

Good suggestion about heat and a penetrating oil, also

 

Long breaker bar (plus heavy pipe if necessary) works for me. I prefer the breaker bars with the large round heads, where the handle has a "blade" section pinned into it, like Harbor Freight #679333 for example. That style tends to be stronger than the one with a short 1/2 inch square section that pivots in the end of the handle.

I've never needed to take a torch to that nut, and I don't know that I'd recommend that unless you're replacing the outer CV joint (or the entire drive axle assembly). I would not reuse a nut that has been hit with a torch, and I almost never reuse those nuts at all. If a replacement is available, I replace that nut when I remove it.

 

This post brings back memories...
The very first time I ever removed one of these nuts
was on a 86 blazer, I used a big *** breaker bar
and a 5 foot long steel pipe. I used hammers, sledges,
penetrating oil, stood on the pipe, jumped on the pipe
and 2 days later it came loose lol. I've done many
since then and they've all been easy. Good luck!

 

Got the hub nut off Now new problem can not get the hub assembly to come free .

I made sure the three bolts in the back were off, the hub nut is completely off and the abs sensor is unplugged but the hub assembly just will not budge!

I have tried soaking the entire area with PB Blaster, going at it with a crow bar, wedging a screw driver in there and hitting it with a hammer, and even hitting the sides with a hammer to try to shake it free. Is there a bolt I am missing or something?