From this post, I'm guessing you're in an area where you have winters, and road salt.

A torch really helps free things up. You want to heat the cast iron of the steering knuckle/suspension upright, not the bearing/hub assembly itself. The idea is to get the outer piece to expand away from the hub/bearing assembly and free it. A MAP gas torch is better than nothing. If you have an oxy/acetylene setup, use the biggest heating tip you can find. The one that looks like a full size shower head from the bathroom is the best.

 

Aww the joys , even with PB and heat been there done that

 

Got the hub assembly off with propane torch, but not with out damage. Bent the dust shield to the point where it is rubing the rotor and can not get it to bend back. Can I just take this thing off and throw it out? If not where can I buy
a new one cause I called around and no one seems to have a front dust shield.

Other problem, the new hub assembly was taken off three times now because of the plate and trying to bend it and now it will not go all they way on again, do I just need to Greese it again?

 

I wouldn't drive on public roads without splash shields, and I'd never, ever drive with a splash shied on one front wheel and not the other. In rainy weather, it takes a very long time for the rotors and pads to shed all the water they build up without the splash shields. The result is a very hard pedal, like the brakes are working, but no stopping force at all for several very long seconds. If that's happening on one front wheel only, it will be pulling hard to the side that has the good splash shield until the wet side starts working. That would be very dangerous IMO.

New splash shields are available. Right side is GM Part # 15704499. Left side is GM part # 15704500. RockAuto.com lists them as "brake backing plates" and on a part # search. About $34 each plus shipping.

Pull it yourself parts yards are an option as well. They will be cheaper there, but also a lot of work to get to them. That's a part I wouldn't really trust from a "full service" used parts yard. Those get damaged when cars are set on the ground without wheels.

Depending on the damage and where the rubbing/grinding spot is, I might consider taking a grinder to the damaged area and grinding down the damage so there is no rubbing. You also might be able to hammer it out flat (or into the appropriate shape) to repair the damage.

The bearings are sealed, so you can't grease them? Or are you asking if you should dab a bit more grease around the outer edge when you install it? that's probably a good idea.

 

When I said add more grease I met adding some to the CV (I think that is what it is called?), the thing you slide the hub assembly onto. Going to be doing both hub assemblies, but guess I'll take your advice and buy new splash shields since the ones on there are developing holes. Seems a little pricey for a sheet of metal.

 

The end of the CV with the splines can use a bit of grease where it slides through.

The main CV joint should be sealed by the rubber boot on the back, and it's impossible to add grease without removing and reclamping the boot. If the boot is cracked or leaking, now is the time to replace it. If it's dry and hard, it might not be a bad idea to replace it. Most exact replacement boot kits come with a packet of CV grease. You also usually need special pliers to tighten the clamps properly. CV joint grease is a fairly specialized lube. Don't put just any grease in those joints.

 

will the end with the splines need the special CV grease as well? and how much?

drenched v thin coating.

 

Just a thin coating of grease to lube the splines is good.

If you live in an area with winter road salt, a fairly thick coat of anti-seize on the splines, threads and under the bearing surface of the nut would be even better. A thin coat of anti-seize between the brake rotor and hub flange, and between the wheel and the rotor surface and the hub center also helps stuff come apart later.

Where it's more open, you don't want anti-seize contaminating the brake pads.

 

the hubs are a little tricky, but if you work at it from 3 sides prying and using a rubber mallot, it will come off. there are only 3 bolts.

 

Ordered the backing plates, but they will not be here for a few days. Guess my poor blazer is gonna sit on the jack stands for a bit. Is it fine to have the CV end exposed this whole time while I wait for the parts or should I cover it with something?

btw, thanks for the part numbers, couldn't of found these things without.