Steering Rebuild - Any specific Order?
#1
Steering Rebuild - Any specific Order?
Hi All!
Rebuilding front end on my 98 Blazer 4x4 4 door...have the following
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Inner and outer tie rods w/new sleeves
Pitman arm
Idler Link Arm
Is there a specific order that I should use? Any tips or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Rebuilding front end on my 98 Blazer 4x4 4 door...have the following
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Inner and outer tie rods w/new sleeves
Pitman arm
Idler Link Arm
Is there a specific order that I should use? Any tips or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
#3
I'd do ball joints first, probably starting with the lower( lower and then upper so one sides all done , then move to the next side).
If you take the nut off the ball joint and smack the knuckle perpendicular to the ball joint stud with a hammer the ball joint will pop right out of the hole. make sure it is solid on jackstands, and DO NOT put any part of your body under it while doing so- because it is under alot of tension from the torsion bars and will swing down very fast. Use a floor jack to press the lower control arm back up to meet the knuckle once the new ball joint is installed. Do the upper the same way.
I would do the pitman arm and idler, then the tie rods. For the pitman arm you will need a pitman arm puller to get it off the steering box. You will have to loosen the steering box to access - be prepared because it is super tight in that area. There are three 16mm bolts accessable from in the fender well that hold the steering box in.
You can use the same hammer technique to separate the tierods from the knuckles. It works for basically any tapered stud, and makes separating them a breeze
If you take the nut off the ball joint and smack the knuckle perpendicular to the ball joint stud with a hammer the ball joint will pop right out of the hole. make sure it is solid on jackstands, and DO NOT put any part of your body under it while doing so- because it is under alot of tension from the torsion bars and will swing down very fast. Use a floor jack to press the lower control arm back up to meet the knuckle once the new ball joint is installed. Do the upper the same way.
I would do the pitman arm and idler, then the tie rods. For the pitman arm you will need a pitman arm puller to get it off the steering box. You will have to loosen the steering box to access - be prepared because it is super tight in that area. There are three 16mm bolts accessable from in the fender well that hold the steering box in.
You can use the same hammer technique to separate the tierods from the knuckles. It works for basically any tapered stud, and makes separating them a breeze
#5
The pitman arm pullers are usually more compact than other types of pullers, and are able to slip in the tight slot between the steering box and pitman arm because of the way they're designed. If you can fit a 2 or three arm puller in there, it could work. But it may be worth your while to pick up an actual pitman arm puller- they aren't very costly and it will save you a headache
#6
try not to mix up parts, like lay down the tie rods or the drag link on the ground exactly how you took it off as you dont put stuff on backwards (though i dont think you really can on these trucks). it just helps when you go to put stuff back together and trying to figure out what came from where
#7
Friggin Nightmare!
The pitman arm pullers are usually more compact than other types of pullers, and are able to slip in the tight slot between the steering box and pitman arm because of the way they're designed. If you can fit a 2 or three arm puller in there, it could work. But it may be worth your while to pick up an actual pitman arm puller- they aren't very costly and it will save you a headache
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savatage4
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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03-28-2017 11:24 AM