S10 run from Driver's seat
#22
I have a friendly grudge race going with a guy from Missouri, during an S10 Racer's meet we are having in Bowling Green Kentucky in early May. I'll do some more video then, if anyone is interested. It's fun! I have done split screen before..... one side taken by my wife of the race itself - the other side from the driver's POV - both videos synced and played at the same time on the same screen.
#23
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I have a friendly grudge race going with a guy from Missouri, during an S10 Racer's meet we are having in Bowling Green Kentucky in early May. I'll do some more video then, if anyone is interested. It's fun! I have done split screen before..... one side taken by my wife of the race itself - the other side from the driver's POV - both videos synced and played at the same time on the same screen.
I have a friendly grudge race going with a guy from Missouri, during an S10 Racer's meet we are having in Bowling Green Kentucky in early May. I'll do some more video then, if anyone is interested. It's fun! I have done split screen before..... one side taken by my wife of the race itself - the other side from the driver's POV - both videos synced and played at the same time on the same screen.
#24
Here's an old one I did to show my tach along with the run, when I was complaining to the maker about a new custom torque converter that I had bought from them. Definitely not a good run. Converter was flashed from almost an idle to show them stall speed was way too low. They subsequently fixed me up with the converter that I have now, and it pulls the front wheels. In any case, I think it's kind of cool to view same thing from two angles. This one may have been through the mufflers, can't remember.
Last edited by LesMyer; 04-05-2018 at 01:12 PM.
#29
That race is scheduled for May 5. Coming up pretty soon!
I did manage to make it to my local track for opening day last Sunday. Just a test and tune session but 103 racers chomping at the bit. A really good turnout.
Tested with my new transmission (finished installing on Friday), but without the trans brake (not hooked up electrically yet). Good thing to get the new trans in, as I found a fair amount of aluminum shavings in the bottom of the trans pan when I switched it over to the new trans. I was a bit leery of switching yokes on my rear end to a forged one to mate to the huge 1350 series ujoints on my new driveshaft - but no trouble getting the old one off like I thought, and the pinion bearing preload fell right into line when the new one was tightened up. Definitely quicker and higher MPH crossing the stripe, but still not yet quite down to that magical time slip in the 10's I predicted using the dyno. I think with the trans brake and just a bit more tuning I'll be there. Will pull the hood off this weekend to see how much effect cold air will have. Should be significant if the temps were over 100°F going into the motor. With the dyno I had a huge fan blowing air onto the front of the vehicle and the hood was open. I measured the air temp going into the carb at 70°F with a Fluke temp meter and a thermocouple. Unfortunately the leads on my thermocouple are not long enough to take the meter into the car and know what temp air is going into the engine when driving. Guess I need to work on that. Maybe I'll mount a fuel injection air temp sensor in my 2" phenolic carb spacer and read the resistance. I think I can find a resistance to temp chart for those factory sensors, or I can calibrate it myself. But that will have to wait. In the meantime, pulling the hood will guarantee I know the air temp going into the air cleaner.
I ran numbers into a calculator for Dyno correction factors which are used to correct dyno numbers to ambient conditions for the purpose of comparison. Going from 70°F to 100°F air temp (if that is really what it was) would cause a loss of approximately 3.4% in the horsepower department (about 14 hp at the rear wheels for me). (comparing relative Dyno correction factors at 70° or 100°, 23° dew point, 800 feet, and baro of 30.00). Also I may be jetted one jet size too big for max power in higher temp air. They say 1 jet size less for each 20° increase in air temp. I think it's all interesting stuff.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/relativehpcalc.html
I did manage to make it to my local track for opening day last Sunday. Just a test and tune session but 103 racers chomping at the bit. A really good turnout.
Tested with my new transmission (finished installing on Friday), but without the trans brake (not hooked up electrically yet). Good thing to get the new trans in, as I found a fair amount of aluminum shavings in the bottom of the trans pan when I switched it over to the new trans. I was a bit leery of switching yokes on my rear end to a forged one to mate to the huge 1350 series ujoints on my new driveshaft - but no trouble getting the old one off like I thought, and the pinion bearing preload fell right into line when the new one was tightened up. Definitely quicker and higher MPH crossing the stripe, but still not yet quite down to that magical time slip in the 10's I predicted using the dyno. I think with the trans brake and just a bit more tuning I'll be there. Will pull the hood off this weekend to see how much effect cold air will have. Should be significant if the temps were over 100°F going into the motor. With the dyno I had a huge fan blowing air onto the front of the vehicle and the hood was open. I measured the air temp going into the carb at 70°F with a Fluke temp meter and a thermocouple. Unfortunately the leads on my thermocouple are not long enough to take the meter into the car and know what temp air is going into the engine when driving. Guess I need to work on that. Maybe I'll mount a fuel injection air temp sensor in my 2" phenolic carb spacer and read the resistance. I think I can find a resistance to temp chart for those factory sensors, or I can calibrate it myself. But that will have to wait. In the meantime, pulling the hood will guarantee I know the air temp going into the air cleaner.
I ran numbers into a calculator for Dyno correction factors which are used to correct dyno numbers to ambient conditions for the purpose of comparison. Going from 70°F to 100°F air temp (if that is really what it was) would cause a loss of approximately 3.4% in the horsepower department (about 14 hp at the rear wheels for me). (comparing relative Dyno correction factors at 70° or 100°, 23° dew point, 800 feet, and baro of 30.00). Also I may be jetted one jet size too big for max power in higher temp air. They say 1 jet size less for each 20° increase in air temp. I think it's all interesting stuff.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/relativehpcalc.html
Last edited by LesMyer; 04-25-2018 at 11:30 AM.