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  #31  
Old 04-27-2018, 01:27 PM
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Would be nice to be able to hook up all the sensors to a data-logger box of some kind.
Sure would! I can't even remember to look at my A/F meter towards the end of the run. Made three runs last Sunday and promised myself to watch it each time. Forgot each time, watching the tach and road after going into high gear. Been trying to figure out how to rig a cheap data logger, but need more than simple 0-5V input. I do have a multimeter that will data log to my android wirelessly, but its too slow. Need tach on engine and driveshaft in addition to 0-5V inputs and lots of data points to make it worthwhile doing.
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Old 04-28-2018, 11:50 AM
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Perhaps you could simply use a camera and video the gauges.
That could give some indication and you may be able to deduce some information from the phases of the race.

I guess a lot of time is spend at WOT

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Old 04-30-2018, 12:09 PM
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After first attempted run using trans brake on Sunday. Broke spider gears and blew out center of my Eaton Posi. Spool and c-clip eliminators on order. Think the ring/pinion and bearings are still OK. Driveshaft turns. Rear wheels don't. Looks like my truck is not going to make the S10 meet in Bowling Green this upcoming weekend.



Last edited by Lesmyer; 04-30-2018 at 12:16 PM.
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  #34  
Old 05-01-2018, 04:35 AM
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Ouch - too bad.

So the trans-brake worked but the differential let go.
Has it blown a piece of the cover?
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  #35  
Old 05-01-2018, 10:31 AM
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Ouch - too bad.

So the trans-brake worked but the differential let go.
Has it blown a piece of the cover?
Yes, trans brake worked fine but cross shaft/spider gears just couldn't take the shock. It's like dropping a trans into gear, but under full power and about 3500 rpm for me.

When the guts from the center section slung out of the opening and the differential turned, it broke the magnet that was permanently glued to the inside of the cover, that's about all. But time for a new cover as well. Don't need the rest of the magnet coming off sometime and circulating through the gears.

With a full spool for the ring gear, then there will be no cross shaft or spider gears (or differential at all) to break - but have to get rid of the c-clip retention of the axles to use it. This means retaining the axles at the brake backing plates, and this takes some modification of the ends of the axle tubes and axles with some special parts and cutting off the place where the stock axle bearing fits. I will want to make sure everything will work as planned before cutting up the housing ends on my rear end. It's an original 8.65" (people still call it 8.5') housing with 30 spline axles and big carrier bearings out of a 2002 2WD Extreme Blazer with 5-speed. They are like hen's teeth! I thought the Eaton Posi differential I had installed in it would be strong. Guess it was not strong enough for a trans brake!

I really should be going to a 9" Ford rear, but can't justify the expense without first trying the spool. Especially since I just had a new $400 driveshaft made that will be specific to this rear end, and installed a $130 forged pinion yoke to change to the u-joints used in the new driveshaft. That would just be wasted going to a Ford Rear end. Really hope this trans brake will be worth it in the end.

Maybe my big problem is that I don't have a stutter box. These devices allow you to set the RPM the engine will go to when full throttle (and on the trans brake) by removing select ignition pulses to raise their engine to some RPM less than their true stall speed. I suppose that would soften up the initial hit on the drivetrain a lot. I just went full throttle against my torque converter and then let the button go.



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  #36  
Old 05-02-2018, 02:05 AM
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We can only guess what torque goes to these parts at 3'500 rpm at full throttle.

That's racing and tuning. We venture into unknown territory.
I hope my Summit order will arrive this week. Got a couple days off next week and want to finalize the machining of my 4.3.

Good luck with the Mod of the rear end.
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:38 AM
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Well, housing is out of the vehicle, completely gutted, without backing plates, and sitting across a couple of jack stands waiting for washing out and then reassembly. I found the pinion had some dings on it from the breakage so bought a new ring/pinion, complete install kit with new bearings, and a pinion preload spacer with shims to replace the crush sleeve (in addition to the spool and c-clip eliminators already obtained). Because I needed a new cover anyway, I went ahead and bought a Strange Engineering Ultimate 10 rear cover which has the carrier bearing braces.

I don't have a pinion depth gauge, so plan to start with typical pinion shims for a 8.5 10 bolt and read pattern after setting pinion preload and then setting backlash to 0.008. From the pattern I should be able to easily tell whether I need to increase or decrease pinion and/or carrier bearing shims. To facilitate this repeated assembly/disassembly, last night I made setup bearings from my old pinion bearings (which happen to be exact same brand of my new ones). You hone them out enough so they will slide on/off the pinion without a press. Once you have the gear pattern that you want, you disassemble one more time and press the new bearings on the pinion. Hopefully the bearings were exactly the same size and all stays the same. Otherwise it's do more final adjustments while pressing bearing on/off pinion. At least that's my plan. I've never set up a rear before (but always wanted to learn), so who knows what trouble I will encounter. I have a guy who is mentoring me in this process (guy with the press who does race car fabrication for a living), so I can always fall back on him with any questions.
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  #38  
Old 05-10-2018, 11:01 AM
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pinion and ring gears can be a PITA.

That is a very good idea to hone out a set of bearings. Lots easier to throw over the shaft to check for shimming.

After fumbling about two days with a Ferrari 365 to no avail we had a fixture made on which we could measure pinion depth. And alignment of the ring gear at the same time. Then using external shims we were finally able to put it back to factory standards. 4 - 5 hours now. The second one was going considerably faster.

Great thing having a mentor. I'm lucky in that too.

Good work then - and good luck (that hopefully won't be needed)
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Old 05-10-2018, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by error_401 View Post
pinion and ring gears can be a PITA.

That is a very good idea to hone out a set of bearings. Lots easier to throw over the shaft to check for shimming.

After fumbling about two days with a Ferrari 365 to no avail we had a fixture made on which we could measure pinion depth. And alignment of the ring gear at the same time. Then using external shims we were finally able to put it back to factory standards. 4 - 5 hours now. The second one was going considerably faster.

Great thing having a mentor. I'm lucky in that too.

Good work then - and good luck (that hopefully won't be needed)
I'll certainly take some luck! Thanks!
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