Ok I'm gonna push the snow off, find out how to take off that plastic piece, understand I just ram a screw driver in the crease and pry it apart.

One last question, was it a mistake for me to tow the uhaul trailer in "OD" and not "3"? I read the truck owners manual about towing and didn't see anything on that. Ok I'm gonna go back out in snow!

Thanks again CH!!

 

Just make sure you don't turn the wheels or the steering shaft when it's disconnected.

Towing in OD can cause the lock up solenoid to switch back and forth, not an issue, just annoying.

 

I had to wait, the snow fall was not what they forecasted, in fact one of our airports ran out glycol! I took the truck for a ride to get gas and no chk engine light on! Everything ran fine. I turned off truck to check fluids, all levels good. When I went to restart it didn't do it's hard start condition for now. Hopefully the solenoid fixed that crap. I just need some more actual driving time to determine if it still shutters and makes that grinding noise.

As soon as the weather clears, suppose to get real warm and melt everything tomorrow, I will get that fuel filter installed and last spark plug!

Thanks for clarifying I can drive in "3" around without worrying about overheating or ruining the tranny even more than it is.

And thanks for letting me know I didn't ruin the tranny towing the uhaul in "od".

By the way, I think the "TCC" function on/off works perfectly(pretty sure that I'm calling it the right thing), I saw the technician trigger that a number of times on our test drive and it's not like he could reproduce the shutter immediately and it was an exact diagnosis forcing on / off - so I think that's a good thing!

Anyway you've told me what to do so I'll report back as soon as those two things are done or I go out for a huge highway drive before that!!!

 

Update:

Drove it around for a couple more days, short trips, and yah it does have a rough idle you can hear it a bit in park and in gear, not brutal like a bad injector or anything. Typical 500 rpm in gear is a bit low. Still got that old plug in.

It's cold out but I had a chance to look at fuel filter. Talk about a neat challenge. It's never been changed at 128k, not the smartest owner I am, am I!

Gosh it's a little challenging to get at it with that bar in the way!

Can you review my plan and tell me if I'm missing anything?

1) Place both wrenches you mentioned (16mm line wrench and either a 19mm or 20mm open end wrench to hold the filter ) - Try and turn out the fitting CCW slowly wiggling it.
2) Place towel underneath filter to catch gas, wear eye glasses
3) Remove bracket which will allow me to do #4
4) Pinch the black clip on other side of fuel filter and pull off "somehow a hand fits in there??"

Couple more questions:

1 - I have a mighty vac we could use to look at manifold vacuum if you tell me where to "T" into? Would that help?
2 - I was thinking of buying a fuel pressure kit - I see it's very easy to hook up to fuel rail on intake on drivers side. I know you want to know what it is at non run state and running state.

FUEL INJECTION PRESSURE TEST KIT

Multi-Port Fuel Injection Pressure Tester | Princess Auto

Equus Fuel Pressure Tester Kit | Canadian Tire

3 - The leak down test is a long procedure where by each spark plug is removed and air is pressed into cylinder and a leak down tool shows how much is leaking, I assume this is well over 1hr billable time at a shop?

 

With the filter being on there untouched for ~9 years: If the vehicle has been exposed to road salt, the flare fitting is probably rusted to the steel line. If that's the case, hold the flare nut and unscrew the filter from the flare nut, (don't try to turn the flare nut). When installing the new filter, apply anti-seize to the threads, it'll help the next guy, which will probably be you

1. No need to check manifold vacuum.

2. Any of those pressure testers will work fine.

3. The leakdown test is for the fuel delivery system, no need to remove spark plugs. After the fuel pump pressurizes the system and shuts off, the system must hold the pressure above 55psi for at least 10 minutes. When you have the tester, let us know and we can explain how to do the fuel delivery system tests.

 

Update


removed steering bolt from shaft but when I slide it back towards firewall it only goes so far and doesn't come off and up.


I jacked the car up and the drivers wheel is removed.Wheels are dead straight.


Any suggestions? I know telescopic but I must not be doing something right.

I found the following online: Is it true I should pry it off somehow using a prybar and push it back up?
---------------------------
There should be a pinch bolt close to the steering gear on the shaft. Make sure you remove that one, then you may have to apply a little oomph to get it off the gear. But that pich bolt is the only thing that holds the lower shaft on to the steering gear. Make sure you lock the steering wheel & it doesnt move. You can move it, you just dont want it to turn over a full turn & throw off your clockspring center
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Don't need to jack it up or remove the wheel.
Don't need to take the shaft out, just move it over so you can get at the spark plug. Shouldn't need to telescope it.

 

Really? No need to telescope ? Just push it to the right or left off the round part?

 

Once the pinch bolt is removed, the rag joint will slide rearward off of the steering gear input shaft. Only has to move about an inch to disengage the gear box shaft.

 

Thanks Captain hook!


Pinch bolt removed, I've pulled back towards the firewall and it moves about half an inch, I'm not sure what more I can try aside of a pry bar to push it back off the "input shaft".


Always a challenge but I'm up for it!


the bolt is removed, I can take another picture. thanks for helping me again, I know it's hard not being right in front of the truck.


I have a feeling I should put the tire back on and remove the jack, this may be take stress off some parts that could allow this to be normal for me - LOL