Check the ignition timing first, to rule that one out.
Needs a specific procedure to bypass the computer and do a proper setting. Maybe somebody has the procedure for that.

 

I didn't unhook the wire under the dash. I put it TDC and pointed the rotor at 6 on the distributor

 

At the back of the firewall there is the fuel line in and return line, but where does the extra one connect to?

 

Needs to be checked with timing light according manufacturer procedure. ECU wire disconnected and properly adjusted. Just a couple degrees off can cause the driveability issues you describe.

 

so do I unhook the wire then check it with a timing light and if its good just hook the wire back up? Any other steps that I need to do?

 

 

 

Your 95 might be a 2nd series. Not sure if it is exactly the same as the 1st series.
Somebody of the forum might chime in with the correct procedure.

AFAIK ignition on the 95 still works the same as the first gen. as it does not yet have a cam sensor.
By disconnecting the wire you eliminate the advance that the ECU is commanding and can set the basic mechanical ignition timing.
This has to be correct, else all corrections from the ECU are based on a wrong setting and can cause all sorts of driveability issues.

If the ignition is retarded by a couple of degrees it usually hesitates on acceleration but above a certain rpm range (2000 - 3000 rpm) it takes off as if nothing were wrong.
It's bad for the engine to be ran at the wrong setting. Too early can cause knocking, too late can cause an important rise in the exhaust manifold, even dump unburnt fuel into the exhaust and damage the cat.

Try to find the correct procedure for your engine/ECU pairing.

 

I was reading another thread that horizontal cap doesn't have the the wire to disconnect