My 1997 Blazer started blowing warmer air than normal and won't cool down enough. Took itto a shop and they said that the compressor was leaking at the body seal.(they said ithe compressor was a two part piece and that is where the leak is at) And they recommendedI replace the Compressor, the clutch assembly, filter and drier, orfice tube, orings and a flush kit. they Quoted me $999.99.

1st) can this be fixed with a gasket of some sort or maybe just put more freon in and just fill it when it runs low.(it has been getting warmer over a period of time not just overnight) I live in arizona and run it a lot in the summer.

2nd) if all this needs replaced, can I get a better deal than this or how much and how hard would it be to do myself(I am pretty handy around a car but never did A/C work.)



Thanks

Bill

 

Bill, look at it this way, it's a 1997 with 1xx,xxx miles......how many cans of refrigerant 134A can you buy at autozone for $1000.00? Just charge it up...and when it leaks out charge it again. By the way, this is a VERY common failure. I change at least adozen of these compressors every summer for the same reason. Typically it's not a fast leak, it will take a couple months for it to leak down so you may need to charge it a coulple times a summer, but I'd try some stop leak from autozone as well...it seems to work O.K. in the few cars i've seen it used in. You cannot repaira leaking compressor body to my knowlege,the cheapest way you can fix itis to buy an aftermarket rebuilt compressor which is what I am sure your quote is for. Like I said I'd just charge it and see how long it lasts and maybe you'll get lucky with the stop-leak.

 

DO NOT USE STOP LEAK IN AN AC SYSTEM!!! There are a many of TSBs out there stating not to use any type of a stop leak in the AC system due to the small orifices in the system, and the problem with recovery units. Just fill it up, or just replace the compressor, any good quality new compressor will come with the clutch, and if your system was not completly empty, then you will not need a filter and drier, orfice tube, o-rings and a flush kit. All these items are just add-ons for them to make more money. If the compressor was just leaking and did not sieze up then you don't need the rest of the stuff.

 

Yeah I know all about those technical service bulletins, but I have also seen several TSBs on not using ANY aftermarket equipment. The only small orifice in the system is the $3.00 orifice tube, otherwise there would be a restriction resulting in poor performance right?

 

I agree with you lastcoupe, but I just do not like to take that chance. I have heard of other problems in the system relating to the compressor and the drier. Also it can reak havoc on the reclaiming machines, I know the guys that don't use them won't mind, but when you need to have expensive repairs on those machines because of the stop leak you would stop using it also. Besides IMHO, the size of leak that the leak stop might take care of, just filling the system when it gets low would be my option, the do-it yourself cans are cheap enough. Also if the leak is big enough the leak stop wouldn't touch it anyway, and it would need to be repaired anyway. Again this is all my personal opinion. I just would not use the stuff.

 

did the shop actually showed you where it is leaking or they just told you? i'm just wondering because i had the same problem somewhat. but it turned out tobe simple solution,with the help of the guys on this forum.did you have the chance to check my post about a/c compressor not working? my thought is if you could get a second opinion and visual verification that your compressor is leaking, a remanufactured compressor with clutch or from a junkyard should be a good enough replacement as kordog suggested.cheaper than $1000.00!

 

i used a can of the stop leak stuff in my car a while back soon after my oriface tube became clogged. cant be positive because i did so much work to the ac system duing that time but i am pretty sure the stop leak at least played a role. i ended up replacing literaly the entire ac system, save the condensor which i was able to flush and re use. i would recomend not to use the stop leak. be carefull too because alot of the refill cans come with the stop leak mixed in now!

 

I wouldn't use stop leak, for reasons mentioned above. Here's my advice, FWIW; buy a little UV dye kit, UV protective Glasses and UV light from Autozone (~$25). Charge a squirt into the low pressure port (non-threaded connector on the accumulator - grey canister on passenger's side) then look for the leak. This way you can at least tell if you are getting good info from the shop. They do make mistakes, and/or overlook things. Then you can make a more informed decision.

I just did my system (compressor, plus associated non-reusable stuff) for about $300 in parts, and having all the correct tools for the job. I would suggest doing this job yourself if you can because shop work quality can vary alot, but that's just my opinion and I'm pretty particular. If you do, flush the system, lube o-rings, don't overtighten connections, pull a vacuum to verify no leaks, charge intothe vacuum, and don't overcharge for best results. I believe you won't be able to flush the condensor because it's a parallel type, but I could be wrong on this.

Good luck!

 

Oh, if you would like more info on how to do this job yourself, just post again. I'm about to do a DIY post on this. Also there is an excellent video on how to do this job on the advance auto parts website. Look at their videos section. It'll give you a decent idea about how it goes, minus vacuuming the system and checking pressures with a gauge set. Autozone also has a little DVD on it for about $7. It's ok too, having more info than the advance video, but both in conjunction would better. I also suggest using a refrigerant called Cooltop if you're sure the system isn't leaking cause it's a little pricey. I get 35'F vent temps with it [&:]<== freezing my brains.