Ok so it seems there are 2 ways to replace the roller pin. Method A, buy the entire hinge assembly for around $65 or B, cut one off at the junkyard and weld it to yours. Because the only way to remove the OEM pin is to cut off the top since it is machined into place.
Unless someone has had success with this and hasn't reported it?

 

There's someone who swapped theirs within the last year or 2 with pics and parts from Amazon. I think I have it bookmarked.

I can look on my next break.

 

Ok so I ordered both the hinge assembly and the pin/roller/knurled pin set. It appears the pin set is the correct item for our trucks. The only difference being that the pin set isn't machined to take an e clip at the top to hold it in place. On the hinge assembly it's got one.
So before I assemble the pin to the roller via the knurled pin I think it would be wise to put some type of lube or something on it so the roller operates smoothly. What should I use? Anti seize or ball joint lube?

 

Installed the pin that was 3 separate pieces. Turns out you can't take the one from the hinge assembly and use it on your factory setup. It's a little too big. Also be sure to assemble the pieces beforehand. I used a hammer but a bench vice would have been better.

 

Thank you, Sundragon!!!

I purchased the three parts you listed and assembled them into a complete assembly that makes a great replacement for the broken OEM roller pin assembly in my 2000 GMC Jimmy. After pre-lubing the roller with Sil-Glyde prior to assembly, I used an arbor press to drive home the knurled pin with the roller on it. Afterward, the replacement measured exactly the same length as the original. For a top pin retainer, I used a 5/16" axle hat nut (Everbuilt # 762-079) that I picked up at Home Depot, which was the perfect size to match the diameter of the pin's top end (the part that protrudes through the top bracket arm).

After using a pneumatic hammer chisel to shear off the top of the broken OEM pin where it was staked onto the top bracket arm, I drove the broken pin down and out the bottom of the bracket. The diameter of the replacement assembly measured very slightly smaller (by about 0.01" according to my calipers) than the OEM pin at both points where it should reside in the door hinge bracket, so the splines didn't bite into the bottom arm of the bracket to secure it. To compensate, I wrapped a layer of aluminum tape around the shoulder and splines of the assembly. This worked out great, and I was able to push the entire assembly home with a large pair of channel lock pliers, squeezing against the bottom of the pin assembly and the bottom arm of the bracket. This resulted in a good friction fit at the bottom of the bracket.

Still using the channel locks as described above to ensure the pin remained properly located, I placed the friction-fit axle hat nut on the top end of the pin and tapped it down onto the shaft using the side of a large brass drift. Then, as additional insurance, I applied al liberal amount of 2-part epoxy around the pin assembly and the top surfaces of the bracket arms after the installation was complete. Finally, I reinstalled the door spring with one of the special GM door spring compressor tools available on Amazon.



Hope this helps others who need to replace broken door roller pins in the future.