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Evap vent solenoid testing

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  #201  
Old 10-25-2024 | 11:33 AM
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I would get a vacuum gauge on that engine and do the suite of typical idle, snap throttle, etc tests. Your earlier readings suggest an engine with abnormally low idle vacuum

George
 
  #202  
Old 10-26-2024 | 12:35 PM
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Can you explain In a little more detail please ? Can I just put the gauge in on the tee near the brake booster ? Leaving the hose off that goes down to the transmission ?


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Jason
 
  #203  
Old 10-27-2024 | 11:15 AM
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I am not at my truck to look at the vacuum routing but Christine can help you with that. When your diagnosing the engine get as close to the intake manifols as possible. One test would be to remove or pinch off all other lines to get engine vacuum only to diagnose the engine and repeat with all lines back connected and open or pinch them off in turn while looking at engine vacuum and rpm. That way you can assess the engine and look for leaks. There is also the brake cleaner/propane test to help find vacuum leaks.

As I mentioned before the idea here is finding and fixing vacuum leaks but also assessing if your engine has significant wear and issues affecting misfires. Then there is a compression test and ultimately the Les dynamic compression test as your engines complete mechanical check up.

George
 
  #204  
Old 10-27-2024 | 11:28 PM
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This was happening before but hasn't happened for a long time now. What's happening is I get no heat from time to time. My top rad hose is hard so i know the stat isn't opening. My temperature gauge usually reads 100c and now it goes to 112.5c never did this before with it going from 100c - 112.5 this is new and I get no heat then all of a sudden I get heat and it goes to 100c and sometimes it goes to 100c and no heat as well before I would just get no heat but the gauge would stay the same. I live in Canada that's why it's celsius lol. I've changed the thermostat before and will change it again tomorrow for the hell of it but I don't think that's the problem because I've changed it before and nothing has changed. I have no idea why George ? It's crazy the way it's acting up. The only thing I can think of is the head gaskit is leaking sometimes (minor leak )and air is getting in creating an air pocket and preventing the thermostat from opening. I only say this because i loose about a liter of coolant a year but its backs up from what i see. I know you were pointing towards a vacuum leak which it might be. I'm not sure if it was you or Les that had me do some tests a while ago and told me it wasn't a vacuum issue after I did the tests with the scantool. I've also disconnected vacuum to everything to see if it was an issues from a leak between the motor and the lines to the transmission or cab of the truck as well. I basically just pluged the line from the motor that supplies everything with vacuum to rule out a leak from that point.Is there anything you can think of that would make me lose my heat other then a thermostat ? I know vacuum cause this because the blender door doesn't work but ive eliminated that..I have a new rad lol. Heater core orginal. It's ethier is getting air in the system via a head gaskit leak , Calcium buildup in the heater core. I've used brake cleaner before to look for intake leaks and tried propane its very tight and hard to perform these tests.


Thanks
Jason
 

Last edited by jasondis; 10-28-2024 at 12:40 AM.
  #205  
Old 10-28-2024 | 12:00 AM
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My main objective is for you to assess the mechanical condition of your engine through vacuum testing and compression testing. This would identify among other things, a leaking head gasket.

George
 
  #206  
Old 10-28-2024 | 12:05 PM
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How do I do these tests ?
 
  #207  
Old 10-28-2024 | 01:00 PM
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Vacuum and compression testing is all over the internet, I have provided one such vacuum test roll up in this thread. The dynamic or running compression test is a little more esoteric so here is a link:

https://www.alldata.com/us/en/suppor...pression-tests


George
 
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