Hey, again!

Since my fuel gauge is in-op (and the EVAP test can't be completed due to "low fuel level") AND the pump also failed the Captains' "HOW TO:" sticky (KOEO @80 psi, down to 12psi, in less than a minute!, after the f-filter), looks like I'll be dropping the tank. (of course, it has at least 15 gallons of gas in it! Granted, 10+ or so is stale [Blazer was sitting for ATLEAST a year] and the 5, or so, I've add, with a heavy dose of Sta-Bil. I guess I'll have enough fuel for the lawn mower this year ;-) )

Is there any electrical "upgrades" or redundancies that I should do while the tank is down?

I have an AC-DELCO fuel pump assembly from Rock Auto(which included the o-ring/gasket, and the "updated" electric harness/pig-tail), and a new lock ring. I figured that if I'm soldering the new pig-tail onto the harness, if there is anything else that can be addressed while I'm there.

Also, is there anything I can/should/would do to keep the fuel sending unit from failing in the future?


Thanks for any, and ALL insight!

P.J.


EDIT:
Ohh, yeah - minor, little details like:
1999 ZR-2 Blazer, 2-door, 4-button 4x4, 204k miles, UNKNOWN history/maintenance...(estate sale) Lives less than a 1/4 mile from the Atlantic - so SALT is a constant year-round problem...

 

While the tank is out, and you're soldering the new connector on:


Use 60/40 lead/tin rosin core solder ONLY, (NOT acid core).
Use heat shrink tubing at the solder connections to weatherproof them.
The black, and black with white stripe wires in the vehicle harness will not be used, so you can tape them up or do whatever you choose. In the new fuel pump module connector, there is a black wire, and a black wire with a white stripe: Solder both of them together, along with a length of 14ga wire. Use heat shrink tubing on the connection. Run the other end of the 14ga wire to a good, clean, ground, preferably the frame. Use a file, wire brush, or sand paper to shine the metal. Drill a 1/4" hole. Solder an eyelet terminal on the end of the wire, and attach it to the frame with a stainless steel 1/4"x20 bolt, nut, and lock washer. A shot of spray paint will keep it from rusting.


The black wire is the fuel pump ground. It originally goes through a ground splice pack behind the rear bumper, and eventually grounds to the top left rear corner of the frame. The black with white stripe wire is the fuel level sender ground. Originally it also goes through the same ground splice pack, BUT, it continues forward and eventually grounds at the rear of the right cylinder head. Adding this ground eliminates several connections and places for trouble.


Might not be a bad idea to check the fuel filler neck while the tank is out. They like to rust out and cause EVAP system leaks, set trouble codes, and turn the service engine soon light on. The time to replace the neck, is while the tank is out Most auto parts stores can get them. Dorman makes them, and they're usually under $40.

 

Thanks Captain - (I wish that I could understand in-line editing/ get it right..)

1) 60/40 - Not a problem on this small stuff - I do "older" circuit board re-work (through-board-single layer ~90's stuff)/heavy load "cannon" plug (think 200 amp+)on the side - the green nasty is the majority of "repeat consumers"... (the acid "cleans" it.. B.S.! MAYBE on your nasty pipes, not on a board!) On the cannon plugs, I'll use 90/10 so it flows better, but NEVER used acid flux.. G-d awful stuff!

2) heat shrink is my "BFF", used it in my childhood "experiments" and never let me down ( Think Radio-Shack as a vacuum tube test station - yeah, I'm old...)

3) Black AND Black w/ White tracer - seem to be a common ground. Does the ECM use a "different" ground (logic) as to an "analogical" ground (pumps, motors, switches)? [Still don't have my S/M's as of today - P.Office f-up!!]

4) Running a "pig-tail" off of both to a clean body/frame area, and run a 14/16 gauge dedicated wire to the battery, should also help my "hot ground pack" I described in another post, right?!?!???
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...el-pump-92071/
(even thought I've since cleaned it up, and a added DC-4 to it)..

5) Fuel filler neck - NEVER thought of that! I will get on before I down the tank.. Most likely rotted out living in the N.E. all it's life..

I/we have four seasons..

Spring - Usually Salty
Summer -Sometimes Salty
Fall- Occasionally Salty
Winter -ALWAYS Salty
And living close the to the Atlantic- "salt is ALWAYS in the air" can't keep Aluminum from growing white "hairs" in two or so months...


Thanks again for ALL the tips Captain (you rock icon!)

P.J

 

Being from Wyoming i don't have to deal with the salt - But I do deal with packed in mud and sand - when ever I have one down I clean the outside of the tank well, then I usually paint it with a good quality engine paint followed with Dupcolor bed liner to protect the tank - Usually keeps it from rusting out

 

Thanks for that!! (thumbs up!)

Having it out-n-around, I'll deferentially do some kind of a bed liner treatment to it!

If you can subtract "mud" and add "salt" (sand- well being on this over-crowded sand bar...) I'll gladly trade places!

Anyways, thanks again for the tip! (been meaning to do the lower 1/4)


P.J.


(another WISH - smiles that I can understand!...[Ole Skule ] )

 

3) Black is "usually" ground on GM vehicles, they just added a stripe to the level sender ground so it can be identified easier.


4) Don't go any smaller than 14ga. No need to go all the way to the battery, the frame near the tank is fine. If you decide to go to the battery, I would jump to 12ga.


5) Salt air raises havoc with damn near everything on a vehicle, especially wiring and connections. The "answer" to eliminating salt air and road salt is to move South, away from the ocean

 

Welp, I got the new pump/gauge assembly installed last afternoon/evening. Put about 5 gallons in, and read about a 1/4 tank. It (the pump) "sounds" stronger, but without testing, no proof (as of yet)




I did take "Captain Hook" and "odat" suggestions to heart....




The Capt'ns ground updates (to the frame - didn't YET go up to the battery) AND the filler neck - mine was mostly rotted out...


And ODAT's suggestion to "under coat" the tank while it was down - couldn't hurt and wouldn't harm!




Now, to the next adventure, on this, by my standard, abused ZR2... (got too dark, then that white stuff again today/this morning....)






Captain - as far as salt-n-southern climate... yeah, ahhh, no thanx!!


Being a "bigger" guy (yeah, ya can say fat! [5-10; 230]) anything over 60-65 starts getting uncomfortable.. Then add the 80,90% humidity to it - I'm done... (Been there, done that, got the tee... and NOT by choice.. G.I.)