So I found out recently that I have a lower intake manifold thats leaking coolant which I gotta fix. I was told that this is caused by the dex cool coolants eating away at the gaskets. I was wondering how I'd have to flush the cooling system so things don't mix up? Or should I just keep using dex cool since it took so long to go bad.

Couple of other things I am debating on doing:

One is to throw in a brand new oem distributor unit. I don't have a timing gun and I was hoping to just install it and tow it to a mechanic after for them to fix the timing?

The other thing is the front timing cover. It has been leaking oil for quite some time now and I think its gonna get worse and worse. I am just not sure where I can get a proper tool to remove the crankshaft pulley without damaging it. I had the Oreilly puller kit but none really work for it.

Any suggestions?

Car stats:
2001 4x4 blazer

 

Dex-Cool had nothing to do with the gasket. Whoever told you that knew nothing about what they were saying. The problem was the design of the gasket itself, which we have discussed over and over. After the repair and thorough flushing, use whatever type of coolant helps you sleep better.

 

Dexcool does good from what I've noticed SO LONG as there's no leak in the system... Seems like it reacts to oxygen or something. As soon as air starts getting in the system, it starts to gum up and get "rusty" looking... So you could stick with it, OR, do a full drain, fill with just water, run to operating temp with the heater on high, drain again, fill up with water again, run to operating temp with the heater on high, drain again, then do a 50/50 mix fill of water and green antifreeze.


No need to worry about manual timing setting, it's all electronically controlled. So long as the get the distributor clocked right when you drop in it you'll be fine, the computer will take car of the fine adjustments. Pull the distributor cap off and make note (take a picture or something) of the direction the rotor is pointing. DON'T TURN THE MOTOR OVER WHILE YOU'VE GOT THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT! Then when you reinstall just drop the distributor back down in and make sure the rotor points back into the same direction and install the hold-in bracket and that's it.


I have no input on the crank pulley removal, that's one thing I haven't bothered with yet, although my front main is seeping ever so slowly and I know it's in my future...

 

Agree with all of the above but add: use the Felpro gast for the lower intake manifold.

George

 

I am just keep using dex cool then based on what the first replier said about the gaskets.

What if I put in a new distributor in there? Should I mark the position of the rotor in relation to the block and the distributor and try to match the new distributor unit the same way? I haven't messed with one before so I am not exactly sure how many moving parts are to it and etc.

 

FYI lots of people have had good luck with the all metal Chineseum distributor from Skip White (including myself) and it's only a little over $40. Although dropping he distributor in as described above will certainly get things running, subsequent checking of cam sensor retard (relative rotor position) with a scanner and adjustment is advised if it is not 0° ± 2°. Your Blazer will thank you!

If you get a SES light with a PO30x code after changing the timing cover, you need to have a crank sensor relearn done as you have disturbed the crankshaft sensor. Is it really worth it for a small oil leak? Blazers usually leak a lot more from the remote oil cooler lines. Also I question how well one can seal up that timing cover with the oil pan on. Oil pan is really supposed to go on last, compressing the seal on the timing cover - and IMHO this is best done with the engine upside down on an engine stand. But if you are determined to change it, Blazers use a standard balancer puller set. IMHO one from O'Reileys should have worked.

Dexcool or green - keep your radiator full, and the air out. Improper maintenance is the issue with crud, not the antifreeze type. However, I do believe that the plasticizer in the original plastic frame intake gaskets had some compatibility issues with the Dexcool. I imagine this famous problem has long been rectified by the gasket makers - but most everyone who cares uses the Felpro all rubber/metal gaskets (including myself).