I tried the search but I was getting pages and pages on stuff that didn't have anything to do with idling.

Anyway, here we go. I have a 95 4X4 S-10 Blazer. A few months ago it started to sputter if I tried to go more than half throttle...especially when it was hot outside. I live in South Texas so 100+ degree weather is our normal summer temps.

I found a thread here about changing the "spider" injectors and fuel pressure regulator. I did that a few weeks ago and it didn't fix anything! Waste of $300!!! Then about a week after that was changed, the truck started to turn off when I would come to a complete stop. Changed fuel pump and filter. Still sputtering and turning off. It idles for about 2 seconds when I stop and then I watch the tach and see the needle shake a bit and then it turns off.

About 10 minutes ago I finished cleaning out the idle air control valve, throttle body, MAF and took her for a spin. Still turning off! It'll only turn off at a complete stop and once the engine has reached normal operating temperature. It won't do it when the engine is cold. Do I need to replace the IAC valve completely?

Someone please help or I swear I'm going to burn the darn thing to the ground and buy a Ford!!!

 

It is really disappointing when people just look for a "cure all" fix and take the shotgun approach to fixing their vehicle. DIAGNOSE the problem do not just throw parts at it. You could have saved yourself $300 if you had done a simple fuel pressure and leak down test.

Have you cleaned the EGR valve?

You do not have a MAF sensor so I doubt you cleaned that...

Have you done a complete tune up (plugs, wires, cap, & rotor)?

What actual diagnostic troubleshooting have you done?

 

Forgot to mention that fuel pressure was tested a while back. Didn't clean the maf but cleaned the sensor that plugs before the throttle body. The new spider injector kit did remedy the fuel odor problem which was a symptom that I got from this forum. EGR was disconnected months ago to remedy another idle problem. Plugs and wires were changed but not cap and rotor. Believe it or not, this is not my first rodeo. Cars are my hobby and I've been doing it for almost 10 years. I'm just not too familiar with these types of fuel systems and thought you guys would be helpful. Here's my weekend toy that I've built and work on: 2000 Firebird Formula.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gD4pQqlTwfM

Almost all the work except tuning was done by me or with my help. So I do know what's going on. It's really dissapointing when someone comes to you for advice and your first objective is to belittle them to boost your ego.

Thanks for the cap and rotor suggestion. I'll be changing that out next. If it don't work, wanna buy a Blazer? I need to upgrade to a full size anyway.

 

Lets get one thing straight here, I do not do anything here to "boost" my "ego" and at no point in my response was it intentional to belittle someone. If you are looking at it that way, then I am sorry.

Knowing nothing about you and reading what you wrote, the impression you gave was so much like MANY other posts. Frustration is setting in and patience is wearing thin. Too often this is because people are drawing too much from seemingly related posts and trying what worked there without actually running through the steps that brought that person to replacing said component.

All too often, people look for the quick answer when one is not available. Diligence in the diagnosis is what gets vehicles fixed efficiently. Just throwing parts at it is a sure fire way to end up with frustration such as you have demonstrated with more than one comment in your initial post.

About that problem...

What do you mean by your statement that the EGR valve has been disconnected? If you just disconnected the wiring, that will do very little to rule out an EGR problem as the most common issue here is the valve itself being hung open by chunks of carbon flaking off of the inside of the supply tube. If you removed the EGR valve and bolted on a block off plate, then...

What steps have you taken to diagnose the problem?

My questions are not meant to be a slap in the face of your experience. To be able to help you, we need information that was not offered in your first post. But if you want to take things negatively and insult me, that's fine. I can help others. I really do hope you fix your problem. Good luck.

 

The only reason I changed out the injectors was because someone else had EXACTLY the same problems I was running into...gas smell, sputtering while accelerating, and trouble on cold starts. Gas smell and cold starts was fixed with injectors. Checked fuel pressure and it was fine but the previous owner was kind enough to have cut a hole under the carpet so the tank wouldn't have to be dropped. I figured with 140,000+ miles I would go ahead and change it out.

Fuel is checking out fine so spark is my next move. I disconnected the wiring to the EGR to try and diagnose an idle problem and it worked so I never reconnected it. I cleaned out the EGR supply tube when the injectors were changed out. Tube was almost completely blocked! Will cleaning out the valve and reconnecting it solve the issue?

Is there a way to check the cap and rotor or do I just have to change them out? That's about all the diagnostics that I've done.

 

make sure your battery cables are tight something simple but often overlooked

 

Tru dat!!!

A few months ago, my Jimmy did the same thing. It would die when stopping, unless I kept my foot on the gas. ALL I did was clean the battery cables really good. That's all it was.

 

Ok, I'm not speaking from experience with these trucks, but I do have a lot of time in with gm engines. Two things this resembles...

1. As swartlkk said, possibly egr valve. Your egr will only act up when the car has come to operating temp. It doesn't function when the engine is cool, to avoid stalling it. What may be happening is the valve is getting stuck open, and letting the motor choke itself.

2. Torque converter control solenoid. Oh how many TCC solenoids I have had to change in gm transmissions.... To see if this is the problem, before unplugging anything, try popping the truck into neutral when rolling up to a stop. If this prevents the stalling, you may have found your problem. If it still stalls, I would look at option 1 more in depth.

Hope this helps

 

I had disconnected the battery several times over the past few weeks while I was changing out parts but I decided to try cleaning the terminals lastnight but that wasn't the problem. Thanks for the advice though. They needed cleaning anyway!

As for the converter solenoid, I don't think it's that. I've been putting the transmission in neutral when I'm at a light but still have to manually keep the RPMs at 1000+ to keep it from turning off.

 

Ok, so it's not the TCC... Did you try disconnecting the egr to see if that works? Or maybe relearn the idle considering you have unplugged the battery a few times recently. Idle relearn is simple, and will rule it out after it's done. Simply start the truck, no acc on. Nothing. No ac, fan, radio, nada. Let the truck run until it gets to operating temperature (you will see the needle climb, then go down a bit when t-stat opens). Shut off truck. Start truck, apply parking brake (or hold the brake), and put it in drive. Let it run until you see the needle climb up to the same position as before. Shut off truck, your idle should be adjusted.

Now this may not be accurate for these trucks, but it's a basic idle relearn for *MOST* gm vehicles with EFI and an electronic IAC. Although it's much easier and accurate with vehicles that have an electric fan, not clutch fan.