DO NOT GET AN EARLY 1995... i've had 2 of them and I guess i've worked on them so much I've just about got all the quirks (except one i'm working on now) covered. Also in 1995 there were a bunch of changes so its an orphan year like crazy. One 95 had composite headlights, my current has sealed beam, certain interior parts are different like the dash and radio cluster... its just a pieced together year of "lets use these leftovers and lets use these new parts" however, the 95 was still the cheap fuel pump THANK GOD! Best of luck to ya

 

my "parts blazer" must be the early '95, it has a different fuel pump from the '97, alot of other things on it are different than the '97 even though both are gen 2 blazers, front axle is flanged on the '95, not on the '97, sealed beams vs composite headlights, fuel tank vent valve above the spare on the '97 doesnt exist on the '95, those are the major things besides the motor having a different intake style and the a/c compressor being on opposite sides.

 

I've owned 92 95 96 97 98 99. I can tell you they fixed several things each year. particularly with computer, On Board Diagnostics, they made big improvements in 98 and 99. I have a 97 that I love, but will never buy another older than 99.

Also, I recommend getting 4wd, Automatic 4wd, Automatic Climate Control and all the extras you can get. They seem to work well, and parts seem to be easy to come by when something does not work, you can just change it out.

I recommend, when in doubt, put a pair of new half-shafts on the front end, they are sixty bucks each. While your at it, lower (or lower and upper) ball joints and tie-rod ends (buy the good ones, they are worth it). A set of fresh shocks while your in there, then get it aligned. You'll be riding in what feels like a new car!.

Winter is coming, go get a set of stock wheels (make sure they fit the 4wd model, they are different) and have a set of 4 steel stud snow tires mounted and slap them on that puppy (check local laws first, in Ok, we can run them Nov to April).

A new set of plugs and wires will help many of the rough running and idling problems. If you need an injection spider, look for $300 worth of parts, read the tech item on this forum for some good advice.

While you got the hood open on this truck you just bought, put new hoses on the radiator and heater and a new thermostat, and a new serpentine belt.

Check for engine codes and if it's indicated put a couple new O2 sensors on it.

Oh, don't forget to change the oil and filter. I like Wix filters. Visual inspection for leaks around the gear boxes and pinion seals. Pinion seals are not a hard change at all and a $6 seal can save you a $500 third member.

Sounds like a lot, but you may be surprised with a thousand bucks worth of O'reilly's parts can do to your $5k truck! Quite a face-lift!

 

I would recommend getting a 2wd. The 4wd systems on these are not reliable and cause headaches for a lot of owners. Of course I can say that now that I live in a climate without snow and 4wd is sorta pointless. If you can live without it I say skip it! You'll have a more open engine area with less complexity under the hood.

 

2X on keeping it as simple as possible. Moving parts become a huge factor as you work your way up to a 1/4 then 1/2 million miles.

Saving 2 MPG for 300,000 miles can be like $5833.33 for gas alone at $3.50 a gallon. Due to more drive train upkeep you can expect to spend $8,000.00 more than your buddy with the 2WD version over the same 300,000 miles of driving.

Our 2002 Blazer has 88,000 miles on its third transmission. I bought it at 102k and put the Jasper in at 107K.

We picked up the 1998 S10 extended cab long wheel base step side showing 524,xxx miles for $1100 knowing it would need an engine before I would let my son have it for a daily driver when he gets his licenses but I would NOT have even considered it had it been 4WD auto and loaded.

The 1998 replacement engine (complete even down to the computer and AC compressor) showing 119,xxx miles was $450 and the labor will run that much or more depending I or the shop completes the installation.

Automatics and transfer cases, hubs, etc really drive up the cost of owning a worn out vehicle. If you can live without an auto 4WD you can put that $8000.00 savings as a good downpayment on your next truck.

Locally there is a 2004 2 door 2WD auto Blazer with 30,000 actual garage kept miles for the asking price of $10.5K. while that is over the top in my view but $8000 will buy you a very nice Blazer with a lot of life left in it.

 

sure, if you dont need 4wd then dont bother, but it only takes 1 good snow to appreciate a 4wd and to never want to be without one! im not a big fan of g.m.'s axle-disconnect front axle setup, but there are ways to get around the vacuum acutator issue if thats a problem. i have mine front axle "on" from dec-march, so far the electric shift case has been a no-problem item for me.

 

Sorry, I just was not thinking of a "Blazer" as a 2wd vehicle nor a fuel saver. You might look at a Geo Metro if you want to save gas.

 

If the 8th character in the VIN is "X", the engine has the improved injection system, (MPFI). The injectors are located at the intake ports and there are no poppet valves, good set up All 1996 and newer "W" engines can be upgraded to this system for around $200.

 

I have picked up a 1998 W engine with 119K miles to replace my 1998 X engine with 524K miles with a stuck valve and I was wondering where to get a new spider since the intake manifold gasket has not yet been done on the used engine.

What is cool is you get a new pressure regulator built into this improved spider and the price is under $185 at Amazon.

Thanks for your post.