Thank you for the quick response. I saw the spring removal tool on Amazon. I also saw the site for the pins and springs but it wasnt for my year make and model. Did you send me that site as the pins to use to replace my pins?

 

You should be able to get the pins from almost any automotive store. I ended up ordering some online because I'm in a rural town and the NAPA near me has outrageous prices. I ordered from Amazon.

 

I did get the old pins out and the ones. The grommets were a battle to put in. I watched a video that demonstrated the process on my model of Blazer..a ZR2. What the video didn't show was repacing the lower pin. In case anyone doesn't already know....the upper pin and bushings/grommets go in the hinge part on the vehicle but the lower pins and grommets/bushings go in the hinge part on the door itself. The lower grommet/bushing (the smaller one) which goes on the lower pin is hard to put in...there is no room to drive it into place. I used a punch, flat end against the grommet, and socket, cut off a piece of steel pipe..just stayed at it and if finally went in. Is there a specific tool for that job? If yes plz share that info with others performing this rite of passage. Another bit of info is that the pins go in in opposite directions. The top pins goes from the lower up...and the bottom pin goes from the upper hole down...the grommet/bushing come in two sizes a larger one for the top of the pin and smaller for the bottom. So I got this done and my door no longer leaks from the top down. Yay!. All was going good until my ck engine light came on. I have two codes P0101 Mass or volume air flow A circuit range/performance....and P0446 Evap Emission System Vent Control Circuit. How do I fix either or both of these plz?

 

Glad you were able to get the pins installed and it has corrected your leaks.

As for installing the bushings, I usually make a makeshift press using a rachet socket with a diameter just larger than the bushing, and a long bolt with a couple of wide washers and a nut. The socket goes on the underside of the hole, with the bolt and wide washer through the bushing, then the door bracket, then the socket with the nut on the bottom. Cinching down the nut will pull the bushing through the door bracket hole and seat it snugly without risking damaging the bushing.

As for your questions on the check engine light, I'd recommend posting a new thread. Otherwise you may not get very much visibility on a thread about door pins. To get you started, review the DTC code troubleshooting list in the DIY section. I believe both your codes are described there.

 

I fixed the leaks. Now my driver side window will not come up. It's electric. Is there maybe a fuse that I need to check or do I need to take the panel off and get in deeper and find out what's going on? It has been acting up. But it does eventually go up and down. The problem is right now it's down all the way and will not move up at all. I appreciate any and all suggestions to how to remedy this problem. Thank you. Have a great day.

 

Passenger door window works perfectly well. Just thought I'd make that known.

 

If the passenger side window still works from the driver side, then it's not a fuse. I'd investigate the harness right at the switch or even the switch itself.

 

Thank you for the suggestions. The window did eventually come up fully and I am able to get it to go up and and down electronically. So for now I don't put it all the way down. New issue. I have a bad pax front sway bar link and the drivers side has some dry rot. Have any of you replaced yours? Is it difficult to do? I watched a couple you tube videos about it and it didn't look to hard. Also can you tell me the dimensions of that part please? I looked them up online and got a generic measurement. I looked at a couple of them at auto parts places and they weren't the same length. I appreciate any information you can give. Thanks.

 

The sway bar links are quite easy to replace, although if they have never been replaced on your vehicle you may end up needing to cut the rod off. I was able to spin off the factory bolt/washer combo using a large set of vice grips.

don't know the measurements, but be sure you get the right ones for your truck. I believe they vary from 2wd to 4wd, and probably depending on year as well. It's best to do it while the truck is sitting flat on a level surface, not up on jacks.

I replaced mine with Moog links I ordered from Rockauto a few years ago. The kit I bought came with instructions on how much to tighten the links. Essentially it said to tighten them until the bushings bulged slightly.

 

Thank you for the input. I have replaced both of my front sway bar links and the rear ones as well. In all cases I had to cut off the bolts and work the remaining parts out. Now I have a new issue. My check engine light came on. I have a P0446 code Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit.. Confirmed, Current, History and Pending. Any suggestions on what to do to get this fixed are appreciated. I have a very basic code reader. I have only one incomplete monitor, Catalyst. Should I start by finding someone with a more advanced code reader?