What kind of run time are you expecting to get out of this? Running on batteries alone though you might have a few more hours with 2...but what kind of run times would a silent generator do? Itd be much easier to get a roof rack and strap a gas can or two up there for a generator than wire a second battery right

 

i have my lights and radio on a lot when we go camping. Its not a big deal if one goes dead its just nice to not have to get jumper cables out and jump it a 1am after have a "few" drinks.

I think I may have found what ive been looking for. http://www.ase-supply.com/product_p/sp-1314-200.htm

 

its basically a sophisticated isolator. should do the job

 

that's why i suggested the Honda Super Quiet generator.

while it doesn't say how long they'll run per tank, i bought one of those Vpower (?) portables @ Canadian tire a few years ago, and it'll run just under 8 hrs on 1 gal of gas. and that was running 2 full sized fridges, & a 8000 BTU A/C unit. hell, the damn thing runs for almost 10 minutes after you close the fuel petcock.

 

Off-Topic: We are going to be getting some of the 1kW Honda Power Generators with the 500w light mounted onto it for the FD. They are fantastic for large incidents where you can't run cable. Dad has a 3kW HP Generator that can run my Miller 140AS welder!

On-Topic: The 1kW would do everything you would need and more, especially if you wired in a battery charger. Kinda pricey though, but you can find them used and they are very quiet!

 

My last yellow top lasted 10 years and my stereo consisted of all Phoenix Gold 2 M100's an M50 and a MS2125. I have never seen a delco last that long.

 

With all the systems i've run in cars of my own and installs i've done, the only car that ever had issues was my buddies explorer who had a yellow top. He has HID lows/highs/fogs, 1200 watt system, KC daylighters on a safari bar, and 2 fold down tvs that are never on... i've had to jump him about 3 times in the last 2 months.

In my truck i'm actually running a bosch for the moment(someone actually stole my battery... weird sh** in detroit) and i'm pulling around 600 watts for my sub.

The only cars i've seen with a double battery setup are my brothers 2... His 2004 GTO has an optima red up front (which actually blew up on him on the Ohio turnpike) and a yellow in the trunk for the 1600 watt system. And then in his 2009 avalanche he has a red for the truck and a yellow for the accessories... i laughed at him for the optima blow up/outs... in the last 4 years, he's gone through 3 optimas, i've replaced mine once... Mine was stolen, his were dead....

 

i hav 4g wire wer wud u run the wire to get to the battery its hard to fit it in the panels i want to do it the neatest way thanks.

 

Older Optimas were good batteries but once interstate bought them out they have went to crap. Started using cheap lead and weaker acid. I used to swear by a yellow top but not anymore.

Personally I would look into the deka line. Both oreillys and car quest have a relabel deka yellow top intimidator thats a pretty good battery. Deka still makes their batteries here in the US (Pennsylvania) and the laws and rules about using cheaper lead are a bit more strict.


to correct some optimas mis-info in the thread.

Red top is a cranking only battery

yellow top is a hybrid that is aimed more at the cranking but can also be deep cycled

blue top is the deep cycle battery

They all can be used as a cranking or deep but the red top won't like being deep cycled very much as the blue won't like cranking much more than a small boat motor very often.

Many moons ago I used to sale and service DC systems. Everything from 64 volt cranking systems in train locomotives to simple upgrading the battery in atvs.