summer build.
#11
02-02-2010, 10:45 PM
Originally Posted by Spectreblazer
x2 on the alterantor although these trucks already have a 100 amp alternator, dont forget a battery isolator
#12
02-02-2010, 10:52 PM
Originally Posted by boomtruck97
ok, lets take a step back then. if your so interested in compatitions, then lets gat a few things straight.
power
wire
box
subs
first i would really determine the amount of power you truely would like to run.
this will allow for planning as to whether you will need to upgrade alternators and/or add extra batteries
Also now you can determine the wiring you would use to run from the front to the back. obviously if your going to comp you will settle for no less than a run of 0 gauge.
i would recommend an extra battery regaurdless so that it will fight any chance of voltage drop towards the back.
then i would consider the box. either way i would make sure that you at least double pane the box, and if you will port it then i would aim the frequency higher. you will get far better termlab scores off a 50-55 Hz port then you will a 32 Hz port.
then after all this i would choose the subwoofers. That way you know what power and air space you will have.
Also, take into consideration these brands.
Treo Engineering - http://www.treoonline.com/cxt.html
Digital Designs - http://www.ddaudio.com//caraudio/09/woofer09_Z.htm
American Bass - http://www.americanbassusa.com/front...aspx?fileid=73
Resont Engineering - http://reaudio.com/specs.html#sp_xxx
and as far as amps go, feel free to consider US AMPS. and the treos are comp grade that can take 20k each.
let me know what you think.
and after looking at them, im not impressed by the RD audio heavywieghts.
power
wire
box
subs
first i would really determine the amount of power you truely would like to run.
this will allow for planning as to whether you will need to upgrade alternators and/or add extra batteries
Also now you can determine the wiring you would use to run from the front to the back. obviously if your going to comp you will settle for no less than a run of 0 gauge.
i would recommend an extra battery regaurdless so that it will fight any chance of voltage drop towards the back.
then i would consider the box. either way i would make sure that you at least double pane the box, and if you will port it then i would aim the frequency higher. you will get far better termlab scores off a 50-55 Hz port then you will a 32 Hz port.
then after all this i would choose the subwoofers. That way you know what power and air space you will have.
Also, take into consideration these brands.
Treo Engineering - http://www.treoonline.com/cxt.html
Digital Designs - http://www.ddaudio.com//caraudio/09/woofer09_Z.htm
American Bass - http://www.americanbassusa.com/front...aspx?fileid=73
Resont Engineering - http://reaudio.com/specs.html#sp_xxx
and as far as amps go, feel free to consider US AMPS. and the treos are comp grade that can take 20k each.
let me know what you think.
and after looking at them, im not impressed by the RD audio heavywieghts.
all that ****s already taken care of. 200 amp alt, one optima yellow top, 1 kinetik kch3800,yes there's an isolator, ground and power wires are all 0/1, speaker wires are 8 gauge. and i only like rd cause ive heard them and i like the way they sound. if i don't go with rd its audioque 18's. either way its all taken care of. btw im a car audio installer so i know what im doing.
Last edited by slammed95blazer; 02-02-2010 at 10:54 PM.
#13
02-03-2010, 02:21 PM
well thats good. but since that wasnt mentioned before i didnt know that. i was just trying to keep people from spending money and realizing they had forgot to think of other stuff.
maybe next time say the whole situation before asking for advice on things. Then you wont have to tell them you already thought of that.
maybe next time say the whole situation before asking for advice on things. Then you wont have to tell them you already thought of that.
#15
02-10-2010, 01:01 PM
in all honesty i would keep the TC sounds....if your dead set on upgrading then I wouldnt go with RD.....way to many issues with them. Do some research on audio forums about RD before you buy. If I were you I would look into either DD or Sundown. Both great companies. Get rid of the yellow top and put a kinetik under the hood. If you do that then there is no need for an isolator. You dont need to buy all out SPL woofers to get high numbers. You can still run a mid grade woofer and do great numbers without a rediculously high tuning. Its all about enclosure.
My new build is going to consist of 12 Sundown SA-12s, 2 4500w amps, 6-8 Kinetik 2400s and a ton of wire. All in a no wall setup in the truck.
My new build is going to consist of 12 Sundown SA-12s, 2 4500w amps, 6-8 Kinetik 2400s and a ton of wire. All in a no wall setup in the truck.
#16
02-16-2010, 04:38 PM
Yah, I've decided to keep the tc sounds. no need to get new subs. there's are only about 6 months old. but i have upgraded a few things. all wiring went from 4 gauge to 0/1. speaker wiring is now 8 gauge. theres a new box in the process of being made. all the interior speaker where changed to the new pioneers along with tweets and crossovers. the yellow top is staying because i ordered a kinetic battery that will be installed in the back. amps are the same and will stay the same.
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