So much bad info in this thread. A good H-O alt, when properly wound, can and will put out a little more amperage at idle than the OEM alt.

I would go with this.
http://store.alternatorparts.com/cs1...regulator.aspx
Then do the "Big 3".
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=73496&PN=1
Use 1/0 gauge for all wires in the big 3. I prefer KnuKonceptz.
Knukonceptz wire is slightly oversize, and will not work with other brand ring terminals. Be sure to use KnuKonceptz ring terminals.

The idea for high strand count power wire used in car audio came from Welding wire! So if a cheaper source of wire is needed to do the big 3(or if you make your own battery cables) Welding wire is cheaper and just as good, and available in different colors!
https://weldingsupply.securesites.co...R:terms::PA#A2

IMHO most car audio/wire companies wires are extremely overpriced for what you get(like monster cable). That's why I buy all my wires(power and speaker) and RCA's from KnuKonceptz, WeldingSupply.com and PartsExpress.com

If you think you're going to completely get rid of light dimming(if you have it). Think again! All CS and AD series GM alt's have a voltage regulator that have a circuit called "Load Response Control". It delays how quickly the regulator will ramp up current in the field coil by 2.5-10 seconds. What this means is, your voltage regulator(Alt) will NOT respond to sudden high amperage demands like those from a Car audio amplifier.
To be OBDII compliant, even aftermarket H-O Alt's will have VR's that have load response control.
For more info, see this thread.
http://www.caraudioforum.com/showpos...4&postcount=73

For more wiring info and links see this thread.
http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthread.php?t=242661