So Ive finally got all the mechanical kinks worked out on my 2001 4x4 4dr Blazer LS and I’m planning out my lift and steering replacement next. Id like to get everything up front so theres little to know parts shopping while I’m in it. So far this is what ive got, I’m pretty sold on the Rough Country 2.5” just because its not a huge lift so hopefully less wear but the Detroit Axle steering kit, honestly, I just don’t know anything about them but if ProForged has a full rebuild kit or would be better to grab all the individual components I can go that route. I’m open to suggestions just really trying to plan out everything ahead.



Thanks in advance!



Heres the list of kits and components they include:



Rough Country 2.5" Lift Kit

FRONT:

1-Dr side control arm

1-Pass side control arm

2-Torsion bar keys

1-Dr Side Diff Bracket

1-Pass Side Diff Bracket

2-Rear lifted Shackles

1-Dr Side Rear Sway Bar Bracket

1-Pass Side Sway Bar Bracket

2—FR Shocks-660765

2—Rr Shocks-660745



Rough Country N3 Premium Steering Stabilizer



Detroit Axle - 16pc Set

2x Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly - Driver and Passenger Side - 513124

1x Front Left Upper Control Arm + Pre-Assembled Ball Joint - K620172

1x Front Right Upper Control Arm + Pre-Assembled Ball Joint - K620173

2x Front Lower Ball Joint - K5335

2x Front Sway Bar End Link - K6600

1x Front Steering Idler Arm - K6251

1x Front Steering Pitman Arm - K6255

2x Front Outer Tie Rod End - ES3462

2x Front Inner Tie Rod End - ES3584



Detroit Axle - Front Axle Shafts



Detroit Axle - 4WD Front & Rear Disc Rotors + Ceramic Brake Pads



Leaf Spring Bushings



Control Arm Bumpers



Center Link

 

It appears you have some duplication in the parts lists.

The RC kit comes with new upper control arms that are longer that stock to allow for the increased angle so that the upper ball joint is not near the end of its range of travel. Assuming you get the RC kit, ask for what the replacement upper ball joints part number are to keep for your records.

As for Proforged, look out that they might have gone away from using a castellated nut and cotter pin to using a nylok nut on their idler arms and pitman arms. I got a Proforged idler arm to do a 1-ton idler arm upgrade and it came with the nylok nut. It didn't feel right to me.

And speaking of up grades, you might consider the 1-ton idler arm upgrade while you are at it. https://www.outfitterdesign.com/1-to...m-bracket.html

If not, get a Moog idler arm or a Proforged one with a castellated nut and cotter pin as they are both better than the OEM types. I don't know how they compare to the Detroit axle ones.

BTW, is this the kit you are thinking of getting? https://www.detroitaxle.com/part/200..._type_name=4WD

I have no familiarity with the Detroit Axle parts but I like their selection from what I've seen so far.

A final piece of advice: Take thorough measurements of your suspension heights before you do any work. You might find that the torsion bars and/or rear springs have sagged. This will determine your starting point for the actual amount of lift.

I've attached the suspension height check instructions from my 1999 Service Manual

 

Really appreciate all the advice:

I was aware of the duplicate upper arms and plan on using the RC because of the angle but I think as far as the rest Im just going to go proforged on all my steering gear and piece it out individually. I have a buddy that can get me a discount so its not as painful but overall Ive found this truck to be fairly cheap so I can justify spending a little more for quality.

I will definetly consider that idler arm bracket and probably go that route. Does it really help a signifigant amount in reducing steering play?

 

Any new idler arm will have minimal steering play. What an upgraded idler arm or better yet the 1-ton version provides is a much longer life for the part during which it maintains that minimal amount of play.

 

So with that 1 Ton bracket in the image it shows a different idler arm than the Pro-Forged I was looking at Part Number: 102-10018


The one shown from Outfitter Design shows the arm going straight down


Thanks for the help!

 

Yes! The bracket is designed to allow you to use the idler arm pivot (Moog K6723) and idler arm (Moog K6447) that attaches to the pivot shaft that are used with a 1-ton Chevy truck. They list the separate parts at the Outfitter Design webpage. They are not interchangeable with the OEM style for our Blazer such as the Proforged 102-10018 you found.

Does that make sense?

 

That makes way more sense thank you! What i found when trying to interchange part numbers to ProForged was that the Idler Arm Bracket 102-10033 (k6723) interchange perfectly since they match 93-99 1500 however on Moogs website (k6447) says its for 93-99 2500 Proforged 102-10032. I see where the part numbers are coming from on outfitter designs but on the idler arm itself should I be going with the 1500 or 2500 through ProForged? Also will adding the steering stabilizer give additional improvements or is that a waste with this upgade?

With the measuring of suspension heights prior to starting work is that just to see if i need to level the rear? Also on the topic of the rear end, do you know if traction bars are effective on these 210 Blazers?

 

Regarding the cross-referencing of the parts, I thought I had some notes to that effect but I cannot find them. I do remember also consulting RockAuto.com to check the application lists for these parts and trying to cross-reference them with the GM part numbers. From a pdf of a Proforged page I found, it looks like the same idler arm is used on both 1500 and 2500 series trucks/vans. Even if they were different, anything for a 1500 would be much beefier than the stock ones for our Blazers.

I installed a steering stabilizer on my Blazer. You'll want check that there is a bracket on the frame cross member to accept the shock end of the stabilizer. I had to pry this bracket open a bit to install mine. I don't do any rock crawling etc. so all my mods/upgrades are more for peace of mind when I'm off-pavement. I figured the stabilizer would be useful for any times the front wheels hit something hard at a funny angle which should help prevent damage elsewhere in the front suspension system. The nice thing about this mod is that you can add it later at your convenience.

I suggested that you measure the current heights to get a reference so you can confirm the amount of any changes. You'll be wanting to do this after also to ensure the truck is riding level so you might as well do a before measurement while you are at it. After I did my lift I discovered that I only brought the suspension height up a bit higher than the original level due to the torsion bars and rear springs having fatigued/sagged. (I'm shopping for replacement torsion bars and springs at the moment.) I am also the type of person who likes data, hence my interest in measurements. LOL

Finally, I'm not familiar with traction bars at all for our Blazers. Sorry about that. But now you have me curious about them!

 

Lakewood 21705 Traction Bar - these are the traction bars I was looking at
Lakewood 21705 Lakewood Traction Bars - GM Midsize Trucks 1983-2004 - Steel - Pair - Hardware Included (holley.com)

Im gonna have to check on that bracket for the stabilizer. Im building this with that same thought process in mind. I dont have any interest in building the most extreme off-road vehicle possible but I want to make sure that when I do light to moderate stuff off-road I dont break anything or have to worry. Not to mention the fact that most things on this truck are pretty damn reasonably priced so why not just throw it all on hahaha