Sitting here this evening reading all the various threads and well, came across yours and finding everything you've done to be really cool work!

Funny you mention "Time for a V8 swap?", I'm doing that very thing on my '98 Blazer LS 4x4 right now and because of a horrendous noise, but mine sounds like its a bottom end issue. I'm even staying with it being OBD II compliant so the vehicle CAN be sold IF the buyer is willing to pony up to MY pricetag!

If you go with the V8, I went with a low mileage '98 5.7 V8 Vortec from a Suburban. Picked up the engine, engine harness, computer, all the accessories, brackets, pulleys, etc., for $750. I did have to come up with different exhaust manifolds, but happened to have a set of 5.7 Corvette "header style" sitting in a box of junk that I'm using.

My biggest issue was the V8 uses two catalytic converters. My exhaust shop is going to be running the ENTIRE true dual exhaust where the ORIGINAL single exhaust was for the 4.3 V6. Summit carries a line of Magnaflow aftermarket cats (49 State legal) that are small enough and will fit perfectly in the same space as the original larger cat does. From there, they plan to run dual exhaust with an H-crossover before going into two Series 44 Flowmasters.

 

Thanks! I would love to see how your swap turns out.

 

I'll be posting pictures of the entire process and even when she goes to the exhaust shop on my build link https://blazerforum.com/forum/builds...stinker-83306/.

I've been looking for the pictures I took of the core support, but haven't found them yet. Might try and get some new pics this week considering we're going to be in the 60's and 70's until Saturday when they're calling for freezing rain and snow here.

 

I'll be installing this when I have some free time, probably after Christmas some time.




A little Black, for that "stealth" look.

 

When I installed my stereo I noticed that my drivers' front door panel was broken. The part where the door handle screws to the door was broken. I didn't think much of it because it seemed pretty secure when I put it back together. Well I guess all the months of closing the door started to break the clips. Then it began to rattle, it was very obnoxious.

Here is the broken area.




When I cut holes in my On-Star cover I never threw away the pieces that I cut out. so I took one of them and removed the carpet (major P.I.T.A.) then I cut it to fit. I left the handle attached so I cut cut the piece to fit inside the door panel. I used some drywall screws for test fitting and temporarily holding it in place.






Like a glove



time for glue



You can't really tell, but there is clear epoxy on both peices




once it was glued I used 4 tek screws to hold in i place. I also put epoxy around the edges on the top and bottom. When I checked it this morning it was hard as a rock.



Then I replaced all of my clips. I got 25 of them on Amazon for around $10, way cheaper then LMC Truck.



The clips are very very tight. I used a flat head screwdriver to push them in, I slipped on one of them.



I will install it this afternoon. Hopefully it was worth losing some blood.

 

I had a problem with the clips being tight when I replaced my speakers. I went to the auto store and they sell a cheap tool to remove and install these. It's like $4 and looks like a long flathead screwdriver with a bent tip that has slots in it.... I haven't used it since, so it's probably a waste..

Did you get the feeling the driver was about to slip? It seems like everytime I'm doing something and get hurt, right before I do get hurt I think "this is going to cut/stab/bruise/etc me."

 

I was actually surprised that it slipped. I had it wedged into the clip pretty good. The good news is that cuts heal and my door no longer rattles.

 

So, I have a new problem I am having a no crank issue and my crank fuse blows when it does this. I referenced this thread https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/2000-blazer-lt-crank-fuse-keeps-blowing-17708/. What I did was replaced the crank fuse with a higher amp fuse and it stopped blowing, but it still won't start. This started about a month ago and it only happened once in a while. Now it is almost every time I try to start it. What is odd, is that if you put it in neutral and roll it a few inches it will then start. I went to a couple junk yards today. There were about 20 blazers between both junk yards and I found 1 computer. It was only $20 but it didn't solve the issue, but it was very corroded.

 

A new TCCM is aroudn $200. I don't mind buying a new one if I have to, but I am not sure if that its the issue.

EDIT: The 4wd works fine.

 

great thread!