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Very nice! Those are on my list as well. I had 4 KC daylighters on a toggle switch under the rear bumper of my 82 k10. Worked great for tail gaters. The look on people's faces when I'd turn them on sitting at a red light! 82 k10 with 6" lift on 38s.
I'm pretty certain mine are technically illegal, I don't think you can have lights installed that high in Texas. But I think if you have them covered you can get away with them. So I might have to cobble together something.
Been working on my big three (actually four, since I'm doing the starter also) today. I'm replacing the teensy tiny factory wires with 1/0 welding cable. I'm also converting to top post terminals, because side posts are the devil and suck
Here's the stock negative to frame vs new
Check out what GM considered sufficient for the alternator to positive wire! This is the main wire in the charging system!
All in all, I'm doing negative to block, negative to frame, positive to starter, and positive to alternator all in 1/0. There was an additional wire from negative to the radiator core support. I didn't feel the need to upgrade that to 1/0, so I replaced it with the factory negative to block wire, which was bigger.
I'm hoping this helps out with some low voltage issues I've been having. It gets down to like 10V (as viewed on the dash guage) when I'm stopped, headlights, wipers, heater, brake lights, etc. As soon as the idle comes up, it's back to 12ish or so, but I still don't like it.
I've almost got it done, be warned, it's a royal pain in the ***! I had to come up on the engine some to get to the starter wiring, and trying to get that 1/0 on the starter terminal had me cussing quite a bit. There's just no room on these trucks!
Oh well, it's almost done now. Just have to finish routing the alternator wire, and she'll be ready to crank up
Ignore that weird wire going into the fuse. That feeds the auxiliary relay panel. Once the other battery is in place, that panel will be moved to it. Didn't want to spend time making it up nice, when it'll be moved soon
Looks good! This is on my to do list. I also noticed you did some creative trimming on the fender to get your battery in. I bent mine out of the way and then bent it back.
The picture you show of the alternator wiring comparison, doesn't the factory wiring have a fusible link in it? Are you sure you want to do away with it? If you're having charging issues why not try an alternator that puts out more juice? I know this is a popular swap though, I've never really heard what the benefits of it are.
Looks good! This is on my to do list. I also noticed you did some creative trimming on the fender to get your battery in. I bent mine out of the way and then bent it back.
Yeah, trying to shove that group 34 in and out got old. I said screw it, and got the cut off wheel out lol
Originally Posted by eshaw
The picture you show of the alternator wiring comparison, doesn't the factory wiring have a fusible link in it? Are you sure you want to do away with it? If you're having charging issues why not try an alternator that puts out more juice? I know this is a popular swap though, I've never really heard what the benefits of it are.
I've got a pair of fuse holders that I'm planning on adding to the circuit once the other battery is installed. What's weird, is there was that link in the alternator wire, but not the one going to the starter. It's hot right off the battery also.
The benefit for me will come with the future addition of battery #2, and a 12k lb winch. I also plan on an inverter, which is going to be draining the second battery when camping, etc. In theory larger wire will charge everything back up faster. I figure the more robust the charging system is, the better.
