When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So, I might be the first guy to squeeze a fully isolated dual battery setup under the hood of a Blazer!
It's a tight squeeze, for sure, but it's all in there and working! The aux battery is running only the lighting currently, eventual plans will have an inverter coming off of it, and of course the winch at some point.
Also, the main battery is my old group 34, that's been drained down a few times. The aux battery is some random free battery a friend gave me from a jeep he worked on. So, eventually I'll be dropping more money than I want to on a pair of deep cycles, most likely a couple optima yellow tops.
Also, want to give a shout out to my buddy at Steffenson Fabrication and Custom Electrical® for building me the bracket that holds the solenoid and aux battery fuse.
I still need to figure out a battery tie down. I'll be honest, my stock battery doesn't have any type of tie down, hasn't since I got it, and I've gotten by. But now, with the off roading, I need to figure something out.
I'm not a big fan of the wedge type system where it holds it down at the bottom. I prefer the strap/bracket that goes over the top.
A good old heavy duty rubber bungee does wonders, holds well, won't ark, and is cheap
Used them for years - just make sure you use the old school trucker style, heavy duty rubber 1/8 to a 1/4'' thick and a 1'' or so wide not the round elastic motor cycle style .....
Used them for years - just make sure you use the old school trucker style, heavy duty rubber 1/8 to a 1/4'' thick and a 1'' or so wide not the round elastic motor cycle style .....
I know the kind you're talking about. Truckers use them to hold down the tarps when we have a roll off dumpster or something delivered to a job site
Watch out guys, I might have reached critical white trash levels!
That's the breather vent for the rear diff. Yes, I drilled a hole right through the body. Yes, that's a self tapper holding it down. And yes, the rest of the screw is sticking out into the inner fender lol.
The front diff and tcase vents I ran up as high on the firewall as I could. So they're good unless the hood is completely under water, at that point I'm sure the ecu is fried because it's completely submerged, and I've got bigger problems
Hey cleburne, could you possibly post the measurements from the ground to your fender lips front and rear? I'm just curious how far off I am from yours.
