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Just another 2000 Blazer LT repair build

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Just another 2000 Blazer LT repair build

  #21  
Old 01-24-2018, 08:43 AM
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-40 plugged in you could tell it was cold and didnít want to itís was slow starting but still no problem at all mine has 253k km on it so I think around 155k miles it is a lot harder on gas when itís that cold though. Iím not sure if it has had the mpi conversion done on it or not there is a sticker for the fuel system saying that work has been done but doesnít say what. I say if you can find a blazer cheap then itís worth it if you can drive it away
 
  #22  
Old 01-25-2018, 01:27 AM
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Phew. Long night. Parts came today, so put in about 6 hours putting everything back together. Tomorrow I'll flush the cooling system really well and finish this part of the project. Just need to figure out where that one stand off bracket goes, haha.



 
  #23  
Old 01-29-2018, 09:23 AM
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Time to do an update....

1-25-18 Finished putting everything back together, still couldn't find where that one little bracket for a wire to clip into goes, oh well. Flushed out the cooling system really really well. Then I filled with a flush chemical and water. Fired it up, started great!!! After 30 seconds, I saw the RPM gauge go nuts---then completely drop to 0 and a code for camshaft position sensor came on. PO340. F..... Ok, well, spent the night trying to figure out what the heck what going on. Cleaned a bunch of connections for sensors, cleaned the TCCM connections (found them to be slightly corroded), but it go late and I was frustrated so I hit the hay.

1-26-18 Took the day off to work on it in the morning and get ready for an ice fishing contest during the afternoon. Decided to just go ahead and tear the dizzy apart and SEE if there was anything out of place. Well, it was my own fault. I put the wrong screws back in the rotor, and they were just a tiny bit long which they hit the sensor breaking the magnet. A quick trip to the parts store for a sensor, and some screw shortening (since I now had the holes too big for the right screws)... Got it back together and cleared the code and it runs great! Drove it around for an hour , then drained the flush, and refilled with Dexcool. Gave it a quick oil change with some cheap oil that I'll run for 1K miles, then refill with full synth.

1-27-18 Decided to take it up to the fishing contest, 100 miles each way. Ran great! Improved my gas mileage from 13mpg HWY to about 17, so that makes me happy. I could hear the beginnings of a U-joint going out, so I'm going to have to do some checking on that. Otherwise it was great. Steering was definitely improved as well, it was a really windy drive and having the steering tighter was nice. Still a little loose, but it's just going to be that way for now. I'll have to upgrade all the steering joints at some point, probably fix up the suspension a bit at the same time.

1-28-18 Finally cold enough to test out the cold start issue with all the new engine stuff I did. Well.... acted the exact same. No cold start, or barely a pop when it does. Cranks fine, popped once with a backfire, but no start. Threw the pressure gauge on the rail, 60psi with pump running, then holds a solid 55psi. When turning the key back off, the pump would run again for 3 secs and bump the pressure back to 60 until the pump shuts off, then maintain at 55. Still scratching my head on this issue. Crank sensor maybe? Ignition module issues? Going to have to take a break for a few days as I have other things to take care of. Will check back in when I know more.
 

Last edited by Besel53; 01-31-2018 at 08:38 AM.
  #24  
Old 01-30-2018, 03:04 AM
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Temp sensor?
 
  #25  
Old 01-30-2018, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by error_401 View Post
Temp sensor?
Which temp sensor are you referring to?
 
  #26  
Old 02-02-2018, 09:10 AM
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Ok, time for an update...

2-1-18
It's been cold... (was -5F with -25 windchill during troubleshooting, #MN, ha) and the Blazer is in the driveway now, which is perfect for me to troubleshoot. I thought I finally had my fuel pressure gauge adapted to snap directly on to the fuel filter, but after disconnecting the output line I could not get it to snap on. Yep, wrong size. The Dorman 800-120 does NOT fit for a 2000 4WD 4DR blazer fuel filter. Learning experience I guess. Anyway, I also broke the white plastic clip on the filter taking it off since it was so cold, so I just removed the fuel filter to bring into the garage to figure out how I could adapt to it. I said screw it, and rammed some 3/8" hose over the flange on the filter and hose clamped the crap out of it. I reinstalled the filter with my pressure gauge hooked up. Energized the Fuel Pump, and low and behold, it isn't quite up to spec.
-I could only get 68psi., leakdown was fine, held pressure at 60 for the next ten minutes with pump off, but not like it matters if I need to replace the pump anyway... I bet if the temp was over 10F out, it would put out 75+ PSI.
So I guess it's time to order a fuel pump. And ball joints for my f150, lol. Just take all my money RockAuto.....
-I installed a new clip on the filter and the re-installed. Since I was out there messing with it, decided to do some more spark testing as well. Man it's hard to find a decent ground... Ended up using a couple alligator clip wires and going right back to the battery. After I did that it was fine. Spark off #1 was good while cranking until the battery would about go dead. Then I wanted to double check the coil. Since the spark tester doesn't really "connect" to the coil, I held it in tight using some 1000V rated pliers so I didn't get shocked to hell. 1" of blue spark, looked great. Kind of surprising that it doesn't want to start with Starting Fluid, but I'm guessing you need to dump A LOT in there for it to be useful.

I think I'm going to just do the "cut a hole" in the floor method to get at the pump rather than dropping it down. That way it will be quicker and easier to get at it if I need to again. I will be putting in an AC Delco, but still would like better access than dropping the tank and making a huge mess.
 
  #27  
Old 02-02-2018, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Besel53 View Post
Ok, time for an update...

2-1-18
...

I think I'm going to just do the "cut a hole" in the floor method to get at the pump rather than dropping it down. That way it will be quicker and easier to get at it if I need to again. I will be putting in an AC Delco, but still would like better access than dropping the tank and making a huge mess.
Cutting a hole in the floor to get at the fuel pump. I'd like to see how you do that. Would seem a more elegant solution than dropping the tank.
 
  #28  
Old 02-02-2018, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by christine_208 View Post
Cutting a hole in the floor to get at the fuel pump. I'd like to see how you do that. Would seem a more elegant solution than dropping the tank.
Yeah, I'm still weighing my options on it. I originally though that I would have to take down a crossmember to drop the tank down, but after watching a couple vids, I don't think I need to. If my strap bolts don't look too bad, I may just drop the tank so I can clean out if necessary.

Here's a link to a guy that cut a hole. https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...replace-92490/ Might be nice for any future problems. Maybe I'll drop the tank AND cut a hole this time, so it will be easier and quicker if I have to deal with it in the future.

Edit: Think I've made up my mind. To cut the hole, I'd have to take out the rear seat as well. Seems about as time consuming as just dropping the tank unless I run into bolt issues. If I drop the driveshaft for better bolt access, that will give me a good chance to check out the u joints which I have a feeling one is shot. Anyway, have a few days until the pump comes in to decide. Should be able to get it started and get it back in the garage today, it's 15 degrees.
 

Last edited by Besel53; 02-02-2018 at 03:12 PM.
  #29  
Old 02-05-2018, 11:49 AM
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Update:

2-3-18

Got the new fuel pump in! Decided just to drop the tank and get everything cleaned up well. Didn't go too bad, but I'm glad I dropped the tank. The old locking ring was a Bi&%h to get off! Was a pain to get the tank reinstalled, had to have my son help me hold the tank up while I got the straps back in and bolted. Started right up. Parked it outside so I could test it in the morning.

2-4-18

It was cold! Woke up to -5F, so I figured I better see if this solved the Cold Start issue. Well, I cranked and cranked. And cranked. It did pop a couple times, but I wore the battery down cranking. Threw the starter/charger on it for a few minutes, then tried again and with a little more cranking I got it to start. So I have a little bit of progress on the Cold Start issue, but still isn't completely solved. Not sure where to go next, will have to post up in the main forum to get some good troubleshooting ideas.

Was stuck driving it today, (have my suspension on my truck torn apart and have to sait a day for a couple parts). I kept it in the garage overnight so I didn't have to deal with the cold start. Pops off IMMEDIATELY in a warm garage. It sucks to drive right now because of the heater core leaking, it fogs up the windshield really bad and I have to keep wiping it off while driving. Glad I have one on the way, but not looking forward to the installation.

Sorry, no pics today, posting from work and can't have my phone where I work. Will try to post some up later.
 
  #30  
Old 02-06-2018, 07:31 AM
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It's Alive!
Update 2-6-18:
It's -12F this morning. I did have the block heater plugged in last night. The beast started up IMMEDIATELY with no hesitation or extra cranking! I found a comment in a no cold start thread that says to turn the key very slowly until it kicks the starter in rather than just turning the key all the way. IT WORKS. Definitely worth a try if you have a cold start issue. Will have to look at getting an ignition switch for it at some point I suppose. I can't believe the cold would effect an ignition switch.... I work on electronics for a living and can hardly believe it.
 

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