That is EXACTLY what I was thinking on doing in front, but didn't know how I was going to pull it off.

They say it comes with 8 bolts. How do they have these receiver tubes bolting in...? they say they have them tapped for the factory tow hook holes, but that's only two per side.... I really want to do this.

I was looking at the stuff from tractor supply myself... Might stop by again today and lookie. Seems if you were on a budget you could get the receivers and get them in there and only buy one recovery shackle to start with. Usually I'd only use one point at a time. You could also fab a bumper to fit in the receivers....or other tools.

I liked those wheels on his hi-rider.....

And I came up with an idea for the rear bumper -
4x4 or 4x6 square tube that fits between the rear fenders (like the stocker). Notch for a receiver to recess some on the bottom-side in the middle. Fully seam weld a receiver tube in this notch. This will give more clearance than the stock receivers and all you'll need to tow. Use the factory bumper brackets and weld to the tube and add gussets.

Cap both ends and fully weld.

somewhere in the process drill a hole on the bottom on either side. On both weld a nut. On one screw in a petcock and on the other add an air quick-connect fitting (preferably on a 90 elbow). Pack your air chuck and fill the bumper up with compressed air or nitrogen. Air-tank...!!!

It makes for a REAL bumper, raises the receiver, you could add more recovery points if you want, and gives you portable air.

Now I need to find some tubing.....

 

I'm not really sure actually. I looked the other day and there is another bolt in the way that will need dealing with on mine...maybe that one? I bet there is a how-to on this somewhere...that website is run by a friend of mine on another forum. I'll ask him.

My idea (almost) exactly. My idea was the same but with channel iron. I was going to lop the fenders off at the bend to match the bumper as well.

As far as the air bumper idea...I actually did that already with my '88 Jeep XJ haha...it was a tube that we capped the ends on. It stuck off of the sides and allowed for forward facing quick-connects. I drilled and tapped for a water drain plug. It worked very well lol. I had that sucker up to 300+ PSI using my dad's machine shop. Of course, I shutter the think what would happen in a rear-end collision haha. But I seriously might consider doing it again. It was infinetely handy.

http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/s...gs/TheJeep.jpg

you can barely see it ; )

 

Not sure about doing the receiver tube thing. $29.99 ea at TSC then will need to mount, need the recovery receiver, etc. D-rings are cheaper.....just need to fab up a mount.

Keep us posted on what you guys do next

 

The funds have been set aside for rear bumpers on my blazers....and possibly sliders?

 

I like the sliders! &$#@ it, I love the whole thing! lol

 

They say it comes with 8 bolts. How do they have these receiver tubes bolting in...? they say they have them tapped for the factory tow hook holes, but that's only two per side.... I really want to do this.


If I read it correctly, it said that it uses the tow hook and skid plate bolt locations; that should be four on each side, right? I like the idea. I am working with a similar idea of putting one receiver tube in the center, like a rear hitch.

 

Here is what I am planning to do because this whole thing could get more costly and tedious than I want it to.....

I already have some 8,000lb bolt-on D-rings from TSC and grade 8 hardware. I think I'll pull the front bumper off (still needs more alignment tweaking anyway) and fab mounts that use the tow-hook and skid plate bolt holes (I still don't have that front skid plate). I expect to have the mounts reach through the factory tow hook holes about 1-2" and I'll trim the bumper cover for clearance. I'll paint it all with bedliner stuff and be done with it. Out back I'm still planning on the 4x4 or 4x6 tubing bumper and w/ air fittings/drain, d-rings, and trimming the bottom edge off the rear fender plastic. I'll then know how much to trim the tail-pipe on my dynomax cat-back for clearance. I'm still trying to source that tubing locally.

 

Sounds like a plan.

 

So, my plans are getting costly to do how I want so I have completed a fall-back solution.

After looking at the 88-98 hooks, they are a fit so I snagged a pair off ebay. My father-in-law has the old farm truck '90 1500 with these so I've used them and they are plenty strong. These are stronger than the S-series hook and even stronger than the ones on my wife's 1500 suburban (which get used a lot too). I'll fab up something quick/cheap for a hook pount in back and be done with it for now.

I will make a drawing of my plan for the front and rear. I have sketches now. Both maintain a look that is not butchered, but functional and will work without hacking things up. I also have plans for some slick sliders that tuck in real nice.

I want to go wheeling and won't without recovery points and the steel I want to use for my projects is not cheap while there are other things I need to get done. We got rain and I want to find some mud, but don't want to get stuck without a way to get pulled out.

 

blazinator---

how does it ride with torsion bar and shackle lift?

ive been looking at doing the same but i have alot of highway driving im going to be doing and dont want to f*** myself with a crappy ride if i end up lifting it.



Thanks