This was still with the same old 200k junkyard LQ9 engine. ill have to get a picture of the time slip. Basically same setup as last year with the larger/stickier tires.
My other engine is still at the machine shop. They have about a 2 month backlog of engines to build and im not really in a rush until this one starts having issues.
Im still running the upgraded 8.5 with the C-clips intact. The tech guys have not dug into the truck enough to really notice, or they dont seem to care until you get under 10.5 or 135mph at the tracks near me.

I was actually looking to upgrade the driveshaft and have one custom built with 1350 joints and forged 1350 yokes from Dennysdriveshafts, After talking with them for awhile, that was their recommendation. It seems like a waste to upgrade the driveshaft without upgrading the diff as well. This winter i may switch to a 9in for strength and to make gear changes simple (yay pumpkin swaps). But at that time i would go to a 1350 u-joint setup and a 3 or 3.5in driveshaft custom made for that setup. My biggest issue is that i would like to keep the S10 disk brakes in the rear if possible to retain the parking brake and cheap parts. But i may just have to dump that idea and go with something aftermarket like a wilwood setup.
I would much rather just sell the rear diff i am currently running complete and un-butchered because someone else with a lower HP build could really benefit from it and it works great. Plus from my research, C-clip eliminators and street driven vehicles dont get along very nicely.

 

I understand. I had to go to the c-clip eliinators because I went to a full spool - no way to put the c-clips in!! Maybe the c-clip eliminators was 10.5/135 and I'm remembering the SFI flexplate requirement.

I think the eliminator kits with tapered bearings are supposed to work OK for the street, but the others don't. I may find out, That is.... if I can find another primo rust-free first gen s10 body to put my parts in and get it back to streetable (my track closed permanently this year). Once you have those bars sticking out the back window of a pickup I think it looks pretty stupid on the street, and my door bars aren't removable either. Paid too much too chop it all out, and I always hated the shaved door handles too (unless I can just keep the windows down). Probably end up selling it as a roller or maybe even as a complete racecar if I'm lucky. Need to take it to some other tracks this Summer and put "for sale" on it.

Good luck on the engine build. Expecting more power, or just more reliability? What are the differences?

 

That sucks about your track! It seems to be happening more and more which is just leading to more people racing on the streets. I watched a couple tracks close when i was growing up back in Maryland. Usually caused by idiots that buy cheap property near a racetrack then complain about the smoke and noise. Hmmmm i wonder why the property was cheap!!

I feel you on the street build stuff. Full bars in a pickup make the street-ability a bit rough especially without swingout bars. With how hard clean S10s are to find it should be a fairly easy sell as long as the price is right. or you could find a very nice other truck to swap as you mentioned.

As to the new engine, im hoping for a bit of both reliability and power. It will essentially be a fully forged version of the engine im running now with the rings gapped correctly for boost/nitrous. So i should be able to crank the supercharger up a bit more and be more aggressive on the tune while not risking a nice window in the block.

 

OK I get it!! Should be interesting! Keep us posted.

 

I picked up the engine from the machine shop yesterday and got to work.

Pretty new forged rotating assembly


Mostly assembled and now just waiting on new push rods that are the correct length.....should be here tomorrow.



Upgraded to a SFI overdriven balancer while i had it apart to get a bit more out of the supercharger.



And the ID1050X injectors since i was pushing the FIC650s near max.



And the cure for the whole teardown.....
Picked up the transmission from the builder, put some fluid in the converter and put the ugly parts back onto the pretty trans....I am way to lazy to paint everything just to stick its under where it cant be seen.



Since im going to be pushing the supercharger a bit harder and i want colder Intake Air Temps.... i decided to put an Icebox in the back with a built in pump.

I used some through fittings to run the hoses through the floor.


Tank mocked up in place.



And Installed/wired in.
I had to remove the carpet from under it to ensure a good solid mounting point since it will hold 5-7 gallons of water and ice.

 

Nice!!! Looking good!!! Love the progress and upgrades!

 

Great! Looking forward to the new test results!!!

 

Hey there!

What are you using for tires on the street. I've always used either slicks or tires that will spin at will. Looking for something sticky that will last a bit and be safe. Any opinions?

Thanks in advance,

Les

 

I run my old racing tireIm running my old racing drag radial for street tires now. Mickey Thompson ET Street Rs in 255/60R15 size. When these wear out i am going to replace them with the same tire in a 275/60R15 so they match the racing tire size for tuning/speedometer purposes.
They work great and traction is much better than any regular radial, but they wear quickly, so only expect to get 6-8k miles out of them. Also, they might make you pucker up a bit if driving them in the rain.

 

Thanks that's exactly what I was looking for. 6-8k miles is just fine. Not planning on driving in the rain but could get caught. Sounds like it is workable even so.