Thanks Les! All done now at last. So first of all I may or may not have mentioned when I was taking off the coolant hose from the water pump to the intake the side on the intake ripped. I am running into an issue with the new hose kinking (pictured), does anyone have a way to bend these so they don't kink? I think I will try a copper pipe and some hot water tomorrow. Also, I'm having trouble finding replacement shoulder bolts for the oil filter housing and a new stud for the exhaust so I think I will just use a normal bolt in both cases and make it work. Now, what is the best way to clean out my tranny lines before I go put them back in? They have been sitting on my garage floor this whole time. I'm going to put these finishing touches on the engine tomorrow then I should be ready to bring the engine hoist back in!!

 

Should have a molded hose specific for that position. That looks like just a bent piece of heater hose.

For the trans lines you could pressure wash or carb cleaner or something and then blow them out with air well.

Good luck

 

I agree with Les about the hose not looking to be appropriate.

If you do get a hose with the proper shape but it still has a kink it in when you install it, you can sometimes trim a bit off of one end so that it fits better. I had to due this when I installed a larger radiator in my Blazer which caused the upper radiator hose to kink.

 

Thanks Les and Christine, I realized when I got home with that hose and tried to bend it that it might not work lol. Anyways it's all fixed now my local parts store had a new ACDelco one for me. Cleaned the tranny lines inside and out and now I'm just waiting for the new clips that will be at the stealership for me tomorrow. Then I put the final touches on the engine with the hook and oil lines and now I think it's ready to go back in! Now, I'm not too sure how I'm going to connect the leveler to the engine when I put it back in and looking for suggestions. I liked how I had it hooked up when I did the compression test, but I think I would need to cut off the L shaped tabs on the leveler to make it straight just on the back two that connect in the ground bolt holes as there's very limited space in that area once the engine is in. Or I could connect it how the manual says using the intake bolts. Les, how have you had it connected all the times you have put these engines in? I think I will call up the rental place and see when I can get the engine hoist now, I will update this when I know.

 

Thats a nice looking motor.

George

 

Thanks George, fingers crossed it runs!

 

IIRC I used the intake bolts but not the actual ones used for final assembly.

 

Agreed!!!

 

Yes, looking good but it's not too late to paint it pink!

 

Thanks you guys, hahaha Christine hmm I'm not sure I will take you up on that offer but thanks lol. So I got the tranny lines installed today, also got the tranny cooler hose that I ripped replaced as well. With this done I'm feeling ready to install the engine on Monday!! If all goes well I should have the hoist for Monday and I can put it back in. Les, what do you think I should do for connecting the engine then seen as my intake is already on? I'm leaning toward how I had it when I did the compression test but I'm not sure... Also, I assume that I need to sand down the places for the ground bolts on the back of the heads and the one on the lower left hand corner of the block so I don't run into ground issues? Lastly torque converter spacing, it just says in the manual "Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter made during removal. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand." after that it says to put the bell housing bolts in then the torque converter bolts and nothing more about the spacing. So I take it I just slide it all the way up to the flexplate but make sure it can still rotate freely then put the bolts in?