Engine removal ???
#1
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 1

What is the magic trick to get to the top two bolts that attach the bellhousing to the block? I've followed the manual and can not get to them.
Oh forget... 1996 4.3L 4WD w/auto
Oh forget... 1996 4.3L 4WD w/auto
Last edited by swartlkk; 11-25-2010 at 07:38 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the edit function to add additional information in your post if another member has yet to respond.
#2
New Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: keewatin. Mn
Posts: 6

ahhhhh bad news man the tech manual says remove the body mount bolts and lift the body up about 3 inch. i just put a 2inch body lift in mine and now it's easy to work on lots of stuff
#3
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,178

When I replaced my engine in my 89 S15 Jimmy I faced the same issue. What worked form be was removing the trans crossmember, supporting the transmission on a floor jack and then lowering the transmsion to tilt the engine back. I was then able to get at the top two bell housing bolts bolts. When you put the engine in and installing the water pump pulley make sure the pulley installed so that it is co-planner with the other pulleys. When I restarted my engine I tore up one belt right away. I bought two more belts knowing one was a sacrificial belt to see what was happening. Sure enough I did not have the pulley installed on the shaft of the power steering pump.
#4
Beginning Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 40

I had the same problem, it's a 15 mm bolt head I believe. I used a 6 point, 15mm, swivel socket combination. I needed the shortest one and it was still a bit too long to get it in position, so I shave or grind it down some more enough to cover the bolt head. Take one of the bolts and put in the swivel socket and get an idea as to how much you can grind off and still have a grip on the head bolt. You must bang or dent the aluminum heat shield on the driver's side of the firewall, near the bolt. I got it off in seconds using an air gun, after days of trying the impossible. Don't use a 12 point as you will strip the head of the bolt. And of cousrse you need an extesion to reach it. It may be a 14mm bolt, but, the concept is still the same.
Correction: a 6 point (not 5 point), 15mm, swivel socket combination. Don't use a 12 point as you will strip the head of the bolt. And of cousrse you need an extesion to reach it. It may be a 14mm bolt, but the concept is still the same.
Correction: a 6 point (not 5 point), 15mm, swivel socket combination. Don't use a 12 point as you will strip the head of the bolt. And of cousrse you need an extesion to reach it. It may be a 14mm bolt, but the concept is still the same.
Last edited by swartlkk; 11-28-2010 at 08:36 AM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the edit function to add additional information in your post if another member has yet to respond.
#5
well they are 14mm bolts on the bell housing, I always just reach up in there with a stubby 14mm gear wrench and get them right out done about 6 of them that way with no body lift installed or lifting up the body in anyway. hope that helps you its never failed me
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2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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