Ok, I'm new to these, what do I need to know?

For starters... took a locked engine out of my 4WD automatic 95 blazer, out came the flywheel AND the torque converter. So... flywheel is bent, and I can't get the motor to turn, so the torque converter and flywheel are staying stuck to the old blown up block.

Not a problem, I have an extra torque converter and flywheel from a 80's model RWD. Outside dimensions the same, even the part # is the same (looked it up on autozone and advance auto's website by year make model etc.)

So... where's the problem? Just throw it in? Ehh... I'm leary.

and here's why.

The torque converter laid down for a while, and spilled trans fluid (I think it's trans fluid) all over the floor of my garage. So... how do I know how MUCH fluid to put back in? or what kind of fluid?

Do torque converters get filled with trans fluid?

Does the fluid recirculate through the transmission? or is it a "sealed" unit, that leaks when tipped?

Is there a "proper" way to drain and refil a torque converter? and is it recommended, or should I just top it off.

How do you tell when it's full?

Ok.. nuff dumb questions i guess... tell it like it is, and educate me please!!!

 

If you are installing a new torque converter, start by putting in at least 1 quart of dexron III trans fluid,rotate and lightly push the converter until it clicks into the front pump, when its seated fully you should not be able to get your hand under the bottom of converter and housing.when you completely mate the trans to engine you should have at least 1/4 inch space between the converter and the flywheel (the converter must spin freely) this will tell you the converter is in the pump properly,then install the converter bolts. when your done start it up and fill the trans up with fluid while its running. good luck!

 

Appreciate the info!!! anything specific I should know about mating the t.c. to the trans? I know it's splined, and has two notches 180 degrees of each other. I'm imagining it can attach two ways, because of the notches, but not sure. Is there one way better than the other? How hard is it to push it on, as in, can I mess it up by pushing it on forcefully and damage the splines, or will it NOT GO if it's not straight on? I just don't wanna break anything.

 

How well did the torque converter come out of the transmission when you removed the motor? The reason I ask is because it is VERY easy to damage the pump assembly in the 4L60E if alignment is not kept while removing the torque converter. This is something very easy to do with a torque converter all by itself, but VERY difficult to do when pulling an engine with the torque converter still attached.

There is no preferred position to the torque converter. If you need to check something to make sure that it is engaged properly, measure the distance between the bell housing surface (on the back of the engine block) to the flex plate (where the torque converter would mount). Then compare this measurement with that found on the transmission to torque converter. The measurement from the transmission bellhousing to the torque converter threaded lugs should be up to 1/4" longer than that measured from the engine bellhousing to the flexplate mounting surface.

 

How would one know if the pump assembly on the trans is damaged?

When removing this engine, with flywheel and torque converter attached, it was necessary to pull the engine up at a fairly extreme angle, cut the oil pan, and then lower the engine and slide it forward. After clearing the bellhousing, the engine/flywheel/torque converter unit cleared everything else fine, and came up fairly easy. HOWEVER, when attempting to slide the unit forward before removing the oil pan, the oil pan acted to wedge the engine between the front axle and the bellhousing, thus whenever I pulled up on the engine hoist, the torque converter pulled UP on the transmission, while not entirely in it's "in" position.

Could that have damaged the pump assembly, or would it have taken more ooomph than that to do so?

And... although I don't even really wanna think about it... could damage to the pump assembly cause the trans to leak fluid, and if so, what would it take to fix this leak, and to repair or replace the pump assembly? As in... what's the worst case scenario, in terms of work, and time, and $$$???

 

The front pump can easily be damaged..If you have doubts, pull the trans and take it to a tranny shop..Thats what i would do anyways....If you put it all back together and it dont work the worst thing is you would have to pull the trans out .

 

Considering that you bent the flexplate on the way out, I would definitely say that the front pump has suffered some form of damage. Definitely have it checked out before going through the rest of the reinstall!