Maybe these will help. Stolen from Captain Hook.


If engine does not run, check for compression on #1 cylinder just before marks on balancer line up as below. Sticking your finger in the #1 spark plug hole as your friend taps the starter is the way to do it. Once you feel compression, the next time the marks line up you are at TDC#1. If you do not feel compression you are 180 out, and TDC on the wrong cylinder. Keep tapping the engine over until you feel compression. Do the final alignment with a socket and ratchet. Close is not good in this case.




looking from standing in front of the engine.

 

Thanks You this is going to be a BIG help, I really appreciate everyone helping me out

 

Yeah I would NOT try and start the truck again until you are certain that the distributor is installed correctly. Once you have it installed correctly dialing in the CMP Retard is a pretty simple process. I have to do the same thing today as well but I will be using DashCommand since I have an Iphone. I have done this job a few times in the past but I have used a very expensive Snapon scanner in the past rather than an app on my phone lol.

 

Hey, let me know if Dash Command for Iphone works good for you and what Wifi (I assume) OBD2 device you are using. I have Dash Command for Android, but you're the first I have heard with the iPhone version. For Iphone I think it is the only inexpensive game in town to read CMP retard, especially on a 1996. Also would be interested in your OBD2 refresh rate with your wifi adapter, but I don't know how to generate the actual number in anything but Torque Pro for Android. Can be important if multiple PIDs are displayed at the same time (like all 6 misfire counters + cmp retard + rpm). Is the display jerkey or is it fast enough to have enough data points to be smooth operation (the give away is the tach).

 

I have dashcommand to but I didn't know you could test the cam retard using it

 

If you have bought the Enhanced GM PIDs for your specific vehicle, then you can. $10 for Dash Command program + $10 more for the enhanced PIDs. Only cheap way I know of for 1996/1997.

 

Yeah I have the unlocked version with all PID for every make and model of vehicle

 

Well I didn't end up having my friend do the work on my blazer he wanted me to pay him and not even sure if he could fix it because he don't have the oscilloscope to do the cam retard to so I'm taking it to a performance shop in the morning and they should get it running great.

 

We'll I've got good news, I took my 01 Blazer the a performance shop yesterday morning and they worked on it and fixed it and it starts and runs GREAT, now the problem it had was it was off 3 teeth AND they said the distributor was shot, I guess a ball baring fell out of it or something and when the rotor would turn it was wobbling and that is what was making me get the P1345 error code so I went and bought a new distributor and dropped it off to the shop and they called me an hour later saying it was fixed and I'll tell you what, when I installed that new fuel injection spider and new gaskets and the new distributor I it is running awesomely it's got more power and torque and when I turn the key it starts right up very strong. So I'm hoping with all this new stuff I have put on I'll even get better gas milage. The reason I did all this work is because my blazer has 166k miles on it and come to find out everything under the hood was all original from factory and I had a oil leak and then started having a coolant leak but now everything is fixed, no oil or coolant leak and it is running PERFECT. I wanted to thank everyone who helped me out with these issues my blazer was having it is greatly appreciated and it really means a lot. Thank You.

 

Glad to hear your Blazer is fixed. Thanks for letting us know.