bought feb 15th 2011 for 1600 98 4x4 lt nice with 138,656 miles
replaced: tranny-$250 109k on it, rear diff fluid-$50,balljoints-$250, passenger wheel bearing-$100, head gaskets-$800, lower intake gaskets/ uppers-$90. spider assembly-$340 4x4 switch in dash on transfer case-$40, TCCM-$20, Pcv valve $5, water pump$65.
REPAIR COST TOTAL----$2,010 PLUS $1,600= $3,610

CUSTOM stuff: led underglow-$60 flomaster 40 muffler- $65 plus $10 for welded on$75 foglights behind grille$22 plus brackets $10=$32 tail light covers $5 for both plus paint $15= $20 bug shield $10 vent shades $60

GRAND TOTAL SPENT ON TRUCK $3,867 almost 4 grand

body is in great shape some dents going to fix NO rust at all clean
NOW its got 149,954 miles on it now. runs strong love the truck CFL= CHEVY FOR LIFE

 

Well for the Carr lightbar it was $150, two sets of KC daylighters $200, fogs and rear facing lights $50, Sony 12" sub $100, pos amp $50, kenwood head unit $200, big 3 upgrade $50, led interior lights (30 of the suckers) were about $100, IAT sensor $15, evap purge switch $20, two new front tires $150, CAI $50, a quart of oil every week for 1 1/2 years was about $200 , used seatbelt retractor $10, led 'big rig' parking lights $75.
I'm sure there is more, but all together it comes to about $1500, which is almost as much as I paid for it.

 

I added up all the costs of swapping the '00 Jimmy engine to the '89 S10 Blazer, with a new Edelbrock carb/intake with all gaskets & air cleaner assembly, & Pro-Comp HEI, including brand new exhaust from the cat back, idler/pitman arms & alignment, new oil filter lines, tranny lines, fuel lines (hoses) & torsion bar mounts plus a million other little odds & ends that needed repair.

Came to $1,265.53, bought truck for $810 - so I'm into the truck $2,075.53 just for that - this isn't including another $600 or so for a complete front end overhaul including one CV axle, Moog ball joints & tie-rod ends, calipers, rotors, pads & lines.

So $2,675.53. Now if I factor in all the parts I've sold off the original '89 & original '00 engines that I no longer needed, that's got me about $1,000 total.

So for about $1,700 I got a brand new (mechanically) 4x4 truck that's already proven itself 1,000 times more reliable than the Jimmy it replaced. We've put just about 5,000 miles on it since the swap.

 

Seems like it's paid for itself so far then.

 

Yeah definitely can't complain. Will take a few years to make up the thousands I lost on the Jimmy though ....

 

Bought it for $4000 Oct, 2011
2001 Blazer LS 4 door 4x4, 80 000 miles, 125000km
Needed nothing to be safetied.
Heat stopped working the next day...flushed system
Setting 4 on fan switch no longer works...
Cruise stopped working the next day, worked for approx 1 minute
ABS light, parking brake light and some other brake light come on randomy the day after i bought it, and when they are on the abs doesnt work.
Runs like crap now
Engine diagnostic
replaced crank sensor
still runs like @*#^&
engine diagnostic
full tune-up
Still sucks
engine diagnostic
Changed 02 sensor, replaced vacuum lines
still sucks, burns $80 bucks worth of gas in less than 300 KM
engine diagnostic
says it needs maf sensor, something wrong with the emmissions system
runs like crap
wheel bearing ate itself
replaced bearing/hub/ abs sensor
4x4 engages at the transer case but no longer puts power to the front wheels for some reason, maybe another vacuum leak.
There is a hissing sound like a vaccuum leak when the heater control is on anything other than defrost or def/floor.
Blew out a tire, bought 2 new tires $500 Wrangler territories
2 weeks ago the drivers side door started hitting the front fender and now the paint is gone and it is slightly warped, still rubbing and clunking when i open the door.
door pins/bushing are no good...
Its winter so im not sure, but i can pretty much guarantee the A/C doesnt work. Also there is very little heat.
First and Last chevrolet i will ever own.

 

2000 Jimmy SLT paid $2000 for it, needed drivers hinge welded back on and front brakes for safety. Failed E-test horribly, ran like ford lol.
Replaced MAP sensor - $70
Rear pads - $17
Rear caliper bolts came out - $2 for both
Wheel Bearing - $410
Broke my windshield - Doesnt need to be fixed til the 5-0 pul me over
Cleaning throttle body and MAF sensor monthly - $7 can, lasts for the year
Power window switches - $Free$
Vacuum diaphram - So stupid its not worth fixing until i make a posilock cable

 

97 Blazer. 143,097 miles. Ive only had it a little over a month, but ive had to replace all 4 shocks ($25 a piece), rerun wires in the dash (free), replace the muffler with a cherry bomb (free as well), tires ($250). I think thats it so far. Pending work is as follows: Driver side door jam and pins and bushings (the orginal one is about ripped all the way thro on the door frame), the 4WD needs fixed, rear hatch window popper(Im trying to come up with something to put in the place of the hole so that I can pop it from the outside), the map lights need rewired as they only work in reverse, hood and both fenders need replaced from the fire it had, alignment on the front, transmission needs rebuilt cause it has an issue when hitting passing gear, ABS sensors need replaced(damn GM), etc etc. I dont want to put everyone asleep with how long the pending list is. But the good news is, she still starts and drives down the highway. Shes real real strong as long as you dont floor it.

 

Bought it for 300 bucks and drove it to Alberta. Parked it in my garage a year ago. Have probably dropped close to 3500 into it and havent driven it yet. If you wanna see why click my link. Im "That guy" to all my friends who has a stupid hobby truck money pit in the garage. They smoke pot and drink - I mod my trucks and buy RC cars... To each his own.

 

Lets see...the first 96 blazer I bought for $1500 and in a two year period I dumped $3500 in it, including Ball Joints, Tires, Radiator, Intake manifold seal, fuel pump, and brake lines. The engine seized while on vacation in Florida last year and I sold it for scrap for $300.

I just got another 96 blazer in September for $1800 and have put $100 for a sensor and brakes. however, It goes to the shop this week for a new E-brake cable, distributor/cap and possible rear wheel bearing.

I just bought my wife a 2000 GMC Jimmy for $2500 last week. So far It's had a flush and fill, and a new front wheel bearing and it's going back Monday for a code P410 secondary A.I.R pump, and front ball joints....for now.