How long have you had and how much have you put into your blazer?
New Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 58
I own mine just June 2012.
Replace upper ball joints
Replace pitman arm
Replace master cilinder
Transmission rebuilt (and it gave me a nice 1860 code
)
New front and rear pads
New harness for fuel pump
So I had just put in her 25% her value...
Replace upper ball joints
Replace pitman arm
Replace master cilinder
Transmission rebuilt (and it gave me a nice 1860 code
)New front and rear pads
New harness for fuel pump
So I had just put in her 25% her value...
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,185
From: Zurich
Got mine brand new in NOV 1994
Since done:
Front suspension ball joint changed (hit a board sideways) 20'000 miles.
4th rear tailgate (minus 1 Volvo 340 in 1995, Alfa Romeo 155 (1999), VW Passat (2002), Subaru (2010))
70'000 miles (hoses to/from oil filter and intercooler)
78'000 miles (hoses to/from oil filter and intercooler fixed with hydraulic hoses can now be separated)
150'000 miles (transfer case shift motor)
155'000 miles (steering linkage ball joints and stabilizer bar rubber suspensions)
165'000 miles (today - had it serviced and got 4 new tires - hope it is not my transmission making a whining noise)
Since done:
Front suspension ball joint changed (hit a board sideways) 20'000 miles.
4th rear tailgate (minus 1 Volvo 340 in 1995, Alfa Romeo 155 (1999), VW Passat (2002), Subaru (2010))
70'000 miles (hoses to/from oil filter and intercooler)
78'000 miles (hoses to/from oil filter and intercooler fixed with hydraulic hoses can now be separated)
150'000 miles (transfer case shift motor)
155'000 miles (steering linkage ball joints and stabilizer bar rubber suspensions)
165'000 miles (today - had it serviced and got 4 new tires - hope it is not my transmission making a whining noise)
Beginning Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 11
got my 97 4 door 4x4 in september 2011 with 142000 miles on it
replaced:
brake lines
leaf spring shackles
fuel lines
fuel fill neck
front sway bar bushings
A/c compresser and accumulator
every bearing and seal in rear end
transmission at 166000
4x4 vacuum switch
remote oil filter o-rings
tailshaft seal on transfer case
currently working on 4x4. so far new vacuum lines, new actuator, new cable, ordered parts for front differential to work on it after the new year
replaced:
brake lines
leaf spring shackles
fuel lines
fuel fill neck
front sway bar bushings
A/c compresser and accumulator
every bearing and seal in rear end
transmission at 166000
4x4 vacuum switch
remote oil filter o-rings
tailshaft seal on transfer case
currently working on 4x4. so far new vacuum lines, new actuator, new cable, ordered parts for front differential to work on it after the new year
Starting Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 116
From: delaware
found my Blazer on CL on Feb 24, 2011 for $1,300.
it had a slight trans fluid leak and took it in to the trans shop and come to find out it has a brand new t-case but the person who put it on didnt bolt up tight enough. to have the trans all serviced and it bolted back on tightly $140.
had to put new wheel cylinders on the back, along with all new brake hardware and drum on the passenger side (didnt have time to do it on my own so i had my mechanic do it :/) $320
Brand new steering and front end parts(Tie rod ends in and out, tie rod Adj sleeves, pitman and idler arm, up and low balljoints, and brand new steering box) $1,000 (parts and installation)
new fuel pump and lines $460
new exhaust (intermed pipe, muffler, tailpipe)- $205
new alternator- $100
new stereo and speakers- $180
4 Rancho RS5000 shocks- $200
Undercoated (6.5 cans in total)- $30
this list doesnt include tune up, oil changes, filter changes, etc
what it still needs- tires(inc spare), all new weatherstripping, paint, headliner.
it had a slight trans fluid leak and took it in to the trans shop and come to find out it has a brand new t-case but the person who put it on didnt bolt up tight enough. to have the trans all serviced and it bolted back on tightly $140.
had to put new wheel cylinders on the back, along with all new brake hardware and drum on the passenger side (didnt have time to do it on my own so i had my mechanic do it :/) $320
Brand new steering and front end parts(Tie rod ends in and out, tie rod Adj sleeves, pitman and idler arm, up and low balljoints, and brand new steering box) $1,000 (parts and installation)
new fuel pump and lines $460
new exhaust (intermed pipe, muffler, tailpipe)- $205
new alternator- $100
new stereo and speakers- $180
4 Rancho RS5000 shocks- $200
Undercoated (6.5 cans in total)- $30
this list doesnt include tune up, oil changes, filter changes, etc
what it still needs- tires(inc spare), all new weatherstripping, paint, headliner.
Beginning Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 15
93 blazer 4x4, bought with 213xxx on, has 4.3l vortec. changes windshield, upper control arm and front spindle, changed oil and tranny filter and fuild. need to change all 4 shocks and pitman arm. also changed map sensor and plugs
Beginning Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 31
I got my 2000 jimmy at the end of '99 and it had 26 miles on it, has 158k on it now.
2 driver side hub bearings because it keeps cutting the abs sensor wire, new tranny at 88k, ball joint at 130k. Changed the original plugs and wires at 145k, original battery went bad in '09. Needs new carpet on the driver's side floorboard where my foot sits. Other than that not a thing.
2 driver side hub bearings because it keeps cutting the abs sensor wire, new tranny at 88k, ball joint at 130k. Changed the original plugs and wires at 145k, original battery went bad in '09. Needs new carpet on the driver's side floorboard where my foot sits. Other than that not a thing.
Last edited by IronDobe; Jan 21, 2013 at 01:23 PM.
Beginning Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 21
From: Northwest
The Blazer
98 blazer 4x4 ls
Bought in spring of 2006 with 103,XXX miles, now has 143,XXX miles.
Bought in spring of 2006 with 103,XXX miles, now has 143,XXX miles.
- Driver window motor
- Fuel pumps (i think I'm on my forth)
- Fuel pump relays/filters
- customized stock intake
- new exhaust
- new hindge on ddriver side door
- Tires, wheel studs
- upper ball joints
- Step rails off a 2000 frontier ext. cab (coming off since my son is older now
) - have added and removed off road lights, currently not on.
- three tranny filters
- diff oil, wheel bearings, transfer case fluids etc. maintained and changed.
- Custom aluminum fuel filter remote cover
- Speakers replaced
- removed front bumper shroud, painted chrome black. Custom stick gaurd...broken - license plate holder atm
- tightened torsion bars just a shade and got a better stance
- replaced tcc valve with an aftermarket valve........
- both cv axels
- new interior(seats and carpet.)
- oil filter to radiator hose
- valve body of the 4l60e perhaps, this is in progress. Rage on the P1870 code
- tune up, wiring, plugs, distr., etc.
New Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 51
From: Colorado, USA
2000 LS trim 4wd Blazer, I've done alternator, battery, drivers door pins and bushings, replaced speakers all around, MAF sensor as well as 02 sensors. Now I'm having noise from the left front. My mechanic tells me that he will have to take it all apart to determine the problem. So, in order to avoid delays and stuff we're replacing the left front hub and left front CV axle. Ordered from Amazon for the best price.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 647
From: West-Central MA
Usually just jacking under the control arm on the offending side, grabbing the wheel at 2 & 8 and trying to move it will tell you if the bearing is shot or not.
But I've had bad ones with no play that made a ton of noise. Usually you can tell if it's a bearing noise pretty easy - it will be louder turning one direction than the other at speed - like changing lanes on the highway, or going around a long sweeper on a country road at 50 mph or so. If you get the sound turning both directions, both are probably bad. The sound changes when going in a straight line.
Taking it apart won't tell you much. Sounds like an excuse to get in there to charge you labor ... and whatever parts he "thinks" are bad.
But I've had bad ones with no play that made a ton of noise. Usually you can tell if it's a bearing noise pretty easy - it will be louder turning one direction than the other at speed - like changing lanes on the highway, or going around a long sweeper on a country road at 50 mph or so. If you get the sound turning both directions, both are probably bad. The sound changes when going in a straight line.
Taking it apart won't tell you much. Sounds like an excuse to get in there to charge you labor ... and whatever parts he "thinks" are bad.
New Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Got my 99 blazer a few years ago. It has had 128k on it for the last 2 years! Finally got the $$ to get her running over the last few months.
New wheels/tires
replaced injectors
replaced all electrical for fuel system
replaced vacuum cap
replaced throttle position sensor
replaced transmission shift solenoids
some more...
Had to get it done at the shop, as I know NOTHING about Chevy or Blazers at all (DD is a 08 Altima 3.5SE)
New wheels/tires
replaced injectors
replaced all electrical for fuel system
replaced vacuum cap
replaced throttle position sensor
replaced transmission shift solenoids
some more...
Had to get it done at the shop, as I know NOTHING about Chevy or Blazers at all (DD is a 08 Altima 3.5SE)
