put in new RCA wires and my subs also hooked up an old amp....then cooked my old amp...now im looking for something newer ...think a 1500 watt kicker amp lol

yes my trucks alittle dirty lol

 

worked on the 233c transfer case manual conversion again. More updates in my build thread.

 

Fixed door latch https://blazerforum.com/forum/new-me...c-hello-63666/

 

is there anyway to clean ALL this out? I've taken it to get flushed and it just keeps happening. My caps (even new) keep leaking because of it and it's causing damage to my radiator (new leak) and who knows what else... I'd hate to drop another couple hundred on a new radiator just for this to happen again.

PS. its already taken my heater core as a victim...

 

About the easiest thing you can do is toss the radiator, heater core, t-stat, & all hoses, & flush the block out real good. Start fresh with 50/50 distilled water & green coolant of your choice.

If cash is tight, just fill the whole system with tap water, drive for a day, drain, & repeat until clean, then fill w distilled/coolant.

I recall that took a few weeks to clean itself out once I flushed & refilled the system. That engine still lives on in our '89 S10. Runs real hot due to the poor heat transfer caused by stop leak & the Dexcool mud, but it still runs - that's all I care about.

 

First, you need to make sure that the intake manifold gaskets are not leaking. Oil or air must not be allowed to get into the cooling system. Mine were only seeping slightly, but when I took the manifold off, the gaskets were a soggy mess... Check the head gaskets while you are at it, but the intake gaskets are usually the problem.

Flush it out real good. You don't need to take it anywhere to do that. There are chemical flushing products that supposedly remove the mud. I might try one application of that, followed by Smitty's method of repeated flushes with water. You might try driving it with just a detergent flushing product and water in it. Keep an eye on your temp. Run several cycles, draining and refilling completely in between. Your goal is not just to remove the mud, but also to get rid of any remnants of the dreaded Dexcool.

If the leak is not too bad, do the flush process before you replace the radiator to try and keep the crud out of the new one. While you have it drained, replace the thermostat too. I might even run a couple of cycles after the new radiator is installed, since the old one is probably clogged and the coolant flow will have improved.

When the coolant finally drains clear, run one final cycle of water alone, then drain and refill with regular green coolant.

Good luck with it!

 

fixing and touching up some small rust spots on the tailgate on the jimmy. sofar so good, about to clear it

 

Well, I got the spots touched up, I must say, the paint I got from automotivetouchup.com was an exact match. Looks amazing.
Now all I have to do is feather in the clear coat with the old clear, and buff it all up.
It looks funny right now since all I use is urethan clear and that lays down like glass.

 

Looked at the front end because it was creaking when I hit the brakes & had a not-so-good 'bump' sounds over the chitty street potholes etc.

What they say about going over the bolts etc after a SL install holds true!
found 2 bolts kind of loose on the front diff & the upper bolts on the front shocks not as tight as they should be.
Tightened them all up & guess what... no more embarrassing creaking etc over bumps.

 

got most of the manual 4x4 shifter done. Just finished vacuuming the interior and cleaned up my tool box... I flipped my tool box over testing the 4wd DOH lol