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What type of Oil Filter do you prefer?

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  #21  
Old 10-03-2011, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by pettyfog
On that list, AC Delco's arent too great.. about same as Fram.
Been buying Motorcrafts, Mobil 1 or Puro for Fords, AC D's for the Chevvies.
Guess that strikes one off the list.
I know, I wont be using a Delco again. Now that its on there It'll run its course, but I think from here on out I'm gonna use the Baldwin filter 'B35-S'. They're not on any shelves that I know of, but you can order a box of 12 for just over $50 bucks + shipping. They're cheap and have great reviews, so why not right? I'll order some for my pick-up to, it's got a mobile1 on it at the moment.

Originally Posted by pettyfog
About 15 years ago, a couple guys on the Mustang newsgroup issued a rant about finding little filings in Frams. I checked out several next time I bought and found a teeny filing in one.. plus all the cut and sees say Fram is built cheap. Why not avoid them on principal, anyway
Exactly, I don't use them at all, and never really have. Fast production line trash, I have seen tiny metal shavings at the spin on threads before when I used to change oil for a little fast lube shop.

Originally Posted by pettyfog
Oil filters are nowhere near as critical as they were before emissions standard. The crankcase is now a closed system and any air entering it is strained by the air filter.

What's the filter filtering? basically, chunks of burnt oil or sludge.. and the sludge will just be dissolved.

On the subject of larger filters, the better shape the engine bearings the less oil flow. High precision mfg made small filter feasible. Probably the older the engine and more wear the greater the filter surface needed to avoid starvation.

I'd say the oil you use is more critical than the filter. I use Mobil1. If you use big brand 'State Name' ...and worry about what filter you use you are ignorant, but what do I know.. only been watching the results of using certain brands for 40 years..
I use ford motorcraft synthetic blend, with 20% Lucas stabilizer added. At my old work, during winter when work was slow, we overhauled a C13 cat engine. At 700,000 miles in city driving. Naturally, the bearings didn't look perfectly new, but they didn't have any damege. The owner, pretty wise fellow, say's: thats because I always used Lucas Stabilizer. New bearings went in even though the old ones were great..

Originally Posted by pettyfog
And lets think about it... that changing oil by mileage is stupid. Change by season. Twice a year with better oil if you do long drives/ commutes. 3 or 4 times with cheaper oil if almost all short trips. The biggest issue in those grocery getters is condensation.
I usually go by how it looks/feels because I've always checked my oil atleast 2-3 times a week. If the RV don't get drove much, It gets a change just because its been sitting. We use Rotella T 15-W40 in it.
 
  #22  
Old 10-03-2011, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike98Blazer
Over the last 10 years and even since the 80's the technology put into oil has changed significantly. The 3000 mile oil change is a thing of the past in 99% of cases. The oil itself doesn't break down it just gets contaminated and the additive package breaks down. With new technologies in the additives of oil and especially synthetics the oils will last a lot longer. which is where the new larger and higher tech oil filters come in because during a longer oil change interval they have to be designed to handle more contamination in the oil. Most new cars now have recommended 7500 mile oil changes...and in fact alot of them now have oil change warning lights that use a mathematical algorithm to determine oil life based on run time, idle time, road speed, and engine rpm. Some even have sensors that analyze the oil in the pan.

So in conclusion there's lots of reasons to use the larger filter. But if you're doing 3000 mile oil changes then the original filter is probably sufficient. Although in most cases in this day in age 3000 mile oil changes are not needed and kinda a waste of money. Best way to determine when you need to change your oil is to have an oil analysis done at 3000 mile intervals and use them to determine when your actual oil change needs to be done.

Sorry for the rant guys just putting that out there. I am by no means an expert on oil/filter tech I've just done alot of research on the topic.
thing is around here,its $25.00 to get a analysis done. I might as well buy another oil change. It only takes 10 minutes to do it. Takes longer then that to get to the lab lol. Just not worth it unless u can get it done for free.
 
  #23  
Old 10-03-2011, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by chris015
thing is around here,its $25.00 to get a analysis done. I might as well buy another oil change. It only takes 10 minutes to do it. Takes longer then that to get to the lab lol. Just not worth it unless u can get it done for free.
Not unless your just plain out curious. I would get one done to see if I were right about changing it accurately. Ya know just to get my moneys worth and all.
 
  #24  
Old 10-05-2011, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by pettyfog
cogito ergo sum

Hell yeah.. why pay more for same crap. Not saying the Fram caused your engine aging.. but hell. I dont know ANYONE who sees the inside of an engine uses them.
Engine was going long before I got the Blazer...it just happened to slip the previous owners mind
 
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by FsTFwRd
Not unless your just plain out curious. I would get one done to see if I were right about changing it accurately. Ya know just to get my moneys worth and all.
I change mine when it looks dirty. I use walmarts supertech oil. Been using it or mobile 5000 mile in all my cars. Never had sludge issues etc. And a 5 quart jug is just 11 bucks!
 
  #26  
Old 10-05-2011, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by chris015
I change mine when it looks dirty. I use walmarts supertech oil. Been using it or mobile 5000 mile in all my cars. Never had sludge issues etc. And a 5 quart jug is just 11 bucks!
Supertech Oil.. I think thats Warren Brand correct? When Wal-Mart sold Tech 2000 it was Quaker State brand if I'm not mistaken. I always felt questiony about buying Wal-Mart oil. I have doubts seeing as someone else is making it for them, that the producing company would use their same formula, and product to put on another shelf with a different name, and allow them to sell it for half the price they sell their own.
 
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Old 10-05-2011, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by FsTFwRd
Supertech Oil.. I think thats Warren Brand correct? When Wal-Mart sold Tech 2000 it was Quaker State brand if I'm not mistaken. I always felt questiony about buying Wal-Mart oil. I have doubts seeing as someone else is making it for them, that the producing company would use their same formula, and product to put on another shelf with a different name, and allow them to sell it for half the price they sell their own.
I use that as well as their tranny fluid...seems fine to me...
 
  #28  
Old 10-05-2011, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by okiedoak20
im not sure of the stories about fram filter, i have never heard of any personally... i have been useing fram from day 1 car 1, i started driveing
1976, and had 26 cars in that time and had atleast 200 oil changes all with fram filters, works for me...
Fram all the way baby!!!
X2

Thought not as many vehicles. I tend to put over a quarter million miles on my vehicles. Never had a problem with Fram, never. I also trade my vehicles in due to body condition, and hte engine still runs like a top.
For example, my current Blazer has 210,000 miles. I bought it in 2003 with 27,000 miles on it. Wife wants me to trade it in next year, not sure I want too. I kind of like it.
 
  #29  
Old 10-06-2011, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Hanr3
X2

Thought not as many vehicles. I tend to put over a quarter million miles on my vehicles. Never had a problem with Fram, never. I also trade my vehicles in due to body condition, and hte engine still runs like a top.
For example, my current Blazer has 210,000 miles. I bought it in 2003 with 27,000 miles on it. Wife wants me to trade it in next year, not sure I want too. I kind of like it.
I meant to post this earlier. My Dad used fram filters in his 86 E-250 Van he bought new, until a few years ago. He bought one and saw something he didn't like (metal shavings everywhere inside) since then he uses motercraft. But the thing has 380,000 miles on it. (351 Cleveland) and it smokes a little if you punch it. Nonetheless, he got his money's worth out of it.

I have a question about the little flap that covers the oil filters on these 2nd generation blazers. The flap that says "keep shut for cooling purposes". Mine has bent out on the bottom corners due to heat. Is there an aftermarket one you can get thats metal or alum? or would it be better just to fabricate one myself?
 
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Old 10-06-2011, 10:08 PM
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The flap helps the radiator fan draw air through the radiaotr, without it the air swirls up from under the truck and she runs a little hotter. I have run all of my Blazers without the flap for a couple months at a time.

You should be albe to find all you want at your local salvage yard.
 


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