ZR2-ed It!
#51
10-17-2010 | 04:41 PM
Thread Starter
|
BF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,746
From: Raleigh, NC
Pro tip: cut the bracket on the axle that holds the stock brake line..then just use your existing brake system on the new axle 
Allowed me to avoid messing with the proportioning valve (2-door to 4-door difference), should save you from having to fix a brake line.
Not sure about the CV...funny you mention that..the guy I got my axles from also had a spare CV he threw in (not attached to the diff though haha)...So I have the old CV from my 4-door and a ZR2 CV chillin in the garage...I should compare them..
Allowed me to avoid messing with the proportioning valve (2-door to 4-door difference), should save you from having to fix a brake line.Not sure about the CV...funny you mention that..the guy I got my axles from also had a spare CV he threw in (not attached to the diff though haha)...So I have the old CV from my 4-door and a ZR2 CV chillin in the garage...I should compare them..
#52
10-17-2010 | 05:33 PM
New Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 52
From: VA
Wolfpack, that looks phenomenal. Nice work dude! If you find a way to recalibrate shift points, let us know...
This is the exact same thing I was curious about. I'm good with the stock rims, but I'm not sure I would like the amount of tire sticking out the front/rear.
This is the exact same thing I was curious about. I'm good with the stock rims, but I'm not sure I would like the amount of tire sticking out the front/rear.
#53
10-17-2010 | 06:24 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 480
From: Kennedy NY
the front tires shouldn't stick out anymore since you're only swapping the diff, the rear is the only ones that will stick out a little
#54
10-17-2010 | 11:35 PM
Pro tip: cut the bracket on the axle that holds the stock brake line..then just use your existing brake system on the new axle Allowed me to avoid messing with the proportioning valve (2-door to 4-door difference), should save you from having to fix a brake line.
Not sure about the CV...funny you mention that..the guy I got my axles from also had a spare CV he threw in (not attached to the diff though haha)...So I have the old CV from my 4-door and a ZR2 CV chillin in the garage...I should compare them..
Allowed me to avoid messing with the proportioning valve (2-door to 4-door difference), should save you from having to fix a brake line.Not sure about the CV...funny you mention that..the guy I got my axles from also had a spare CV he threw in (not attached to the diff though haha)...So I have the old CV from my 4-door and a ZR2 CV chillin in the garage...I should compare them..
#55
02-08-2011 | 10:28 PM
Starting Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 123
From: Grand Rapids, MI
I've read through your thread, and I'm just trying to make sure I understand. Did you use the ZR2 cv axles or the non-ZR2 ones?
I have a non-ZR2 front diff, but I was trying to figure out if the extra length of the ZR2 CV axles would give me any benefit with my lift. From what I can tell, they are the same except a little longer than the standard. Any other input on this? Thanks!
I have a non-ZR2 front diff, but I was trying to figure out if the extra length of the ZR2 CV axles would give me any benefit with my lift. From what I can tell, they are the same except a little longer than the standard. Any other input on this? Thanks!
#56
02-08-2011 | 10:32 PM
BF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 3,209
From: Sudbury, ON, Canada
added length wouldn't buy you anything as far as angle... They just wouldn't fit. If you want to decrease your angle you'd need ZR2 UCA and LCA and the CV axle, but IIRC the frame is slightly different and may not just bolt up.
In theory though with the longer front end parts it would take less angle to achieve the same lift, I'm pretty sure this is why GM managed to keep the reliability with the 2" higher ZR2
In theory though with the longer front end parts it would take less angle to achieve the same lift, I'm pretty sure this is why GM managed to keep the reliability with the 2" higher ZR2
#57
02-09-2011 | 10:50 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 689
From: Manitoba, Canada
only someone who loves there blazer that much would go through the work to turn THEIR blazer into a zr2 rather than just go out and buy one.
Nice work
Nice work
#58
02-09-2011 | 11:27 PM
Starting Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 123
From: Grand Rapids, MI
added length wouldn't buy you anything as far as angle... They just wouldn't fit. If you want to decrease your angle you'd need ZR2 UCA and LCA and the CV axle, but IIRC the frame is slightly different and may not just bolt up.
In theory though with the longer front end parts it would take less angle to achieve the same lift, I'm pretty sure this is why GM managed to keep the reliability with the 2" higher ZR2
In theory though with the longer front end parts it would take less angle to achieve the same lift, I'm pretty sure this is why GM managed to keep the reliability with the 2" higher ZR2
#59
02-10-2011 | 12:26 AM
#60
02-10-2011 | 03:22 AM
BF Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,143
From: GTA, Ontario, CANADA
added length wouldn't buy you anything as far as angle... They just wouldn't fit. If you want to decrease your angle you'd need ZR2 UCA and LCA and the CV axle, but IIRC the frame is slightly different and may not just bolt up.
In theory though with the longer front end parts it would take less angle to achieve the same lift, I'm pretty sure this is why GM managed to keep the reliability with the 2" higher ZR2
In theory though with the longer front end parts it would take less angle to achieve the same lift, I'm pretty sure this is why GM managed to keep the reliability with the 2" higher ZR2
yup. like rob44 said, they just won't fit, since they're almost 2" longer.
