shackle troubles - please help....
#11
Press out the bulk of the bushing, burn out the rest, REPLACE with poly bushings, to cheap to not replace and a improvment over rubber.
#12
No problem on the high-jacking....the more info the better.
i had tried pb but no luck, sprayed them twice a day for several days before starting the job.
(i also have new bushings...i tend to be a little rough, i now come prepared.)
i thought maybe if i disconnect the shackle from the frame and brought leaf end down i could cut the bolt out.
OR.....with the cutting if i have the vehicle setup to work on like this
( http://www.zr2usa.com/mboard/index.php?showtopic=14200 )
will there be tension in the end of the leaf enough to be concerned if i cut the bolt out at the ends and push out?
talking enough to loose fingers...anything really...like to stay in one piece.
i had tried pb but no luck, sprayed them twice a day for several days before starting the job.
(i also have new bushings...i tend to be a little rough, i now come prepared.)
i thought maybe if i disconnect the shackle from the frame and brought leaf end down i could cut the bolt out.
OR.....with the cutting if i have the vehicle setup to work on like this
( http://www.zr2usa.com/mboard/index.php?showtopic=14200 )
will there be tension in the end of the leaf enough to be concerned if i cut the bolt out at the ends and push out?
talking enough to loose fingers...anything really...like to stay in one piece.
#13
Had the same problem here. What you do is you cut each end of the bolt with a grinder or hacksaw(don't worry about cutting it inside the shackle they are flimsy enough to be moved over the remainder of the bolt with the help of a flathead) Then you take a drill/bit a little smaller then the thickness of the rubber and go to town drilling holes through the rubber. After quite a few holes you will be able to push the cut bolt/metal sleeve out. Pull the rest of the rubber out and slice into the shell with a hacksaw so you can break it free of the leafspring and tap it out with a hammer.
Sounds like a retarded way of doing it but I literally banged my head for hours trying to get that bolt free of the sleeve. When I thought of doing it this way it took me maybe 25 minutes for the first side and 10 minutes for the second side. Oh and as long as your truck is supported in the air by the frame and you have a jack resting under the pumpkin no worries about losing any fingers.
Sounds like a retarded way of doing it but I literally banged my head for hours trying to get that bolt free of the sleeve. When I thought of doing it this way it took me maybe 25 minutes for the first side and 10 minutes for the second side. Oh and as long as your truck is supported in the air by the frame and you have a jack resting under the pumpkin no worries about losing any fingers.
#14
thanks guys for all the help and info. good bye BFH hello cutting tools.
next weekend these puppies are toast.
i will be sure to post results.
next weekend these puppies are toast.
i will be sure to post results.
#15
ok job is DONE!!!
started off slow on first one, second flew by.
tools:
cutting wheel, sawzaw, drill and yes bfh.
thanks guys for all the help. i will have pics up soon.
started off slow on first one, second flew by.
tools:
cutting wheel, sawzaw, drill and yes bfh.
thanks guys for all the help. i will have pics up soon.
#16
#17
Good job. But I wanna see the BFH in that pic too!..lol
#18
yep. just buy another shackle and bolt to replace it with. had this happen on almost every k5 blazer i ever bought
#19
torsion bar was a walk in the park compared to shackles.
found out when i measured passenger side was 1/2" lower than driver with stock setup....never even noticed...fixed that too.
thanks again for all the help, this is a great forum for noobs like me.
found out when i measured passenger side was 1/2" lower than driver with stock setup....never even noticed...fixed that too.
thanks again for all the help, this is a great forum for noobs like me.
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